The 1987 300D/TD buyer's guide is also posted as a plain text file at this link:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt :-) -dm ============================== >If you've got rusted jack points, Jeff, I'd wager a tidy sum that a >little probing of the underbody panels with a screwdriver will reveal >a goodly number of places where the undercoating has lost its >sheetmetal backing. Pull the plastic panels in the front wheel wells >and you'll find more. On second thought, don't; you don't really want >to know. > >Spud did the latest 124 buying guide revision, but unless he or >someone else who's squirreled a copy away can send it along, accessing >that'll have to await the resurrection of the articles at mbz.org. > >joe > >On 7/3/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Shipmates, >> >> I've located an '87 300TD for sale, and the price is right, but I need to >> get smart on what the weak spots are. >> >> According to the owner, the car has some rust but it's been fixed. The car >> is originally from MA. What are the typical places to look for rust? If >> there's some cosmetic rust, does that also means there's going to be hidden >> rust? Can the rust be stopped if caught in time? >> >> How about A/C problems - is this model prone to requiring a new evaporator? >> >> How about engine head problems - I know that #14 heads are weaker, and 17 >> and up are better. Where do I look to see what # the head is? >> >> The car has 250k miles on it, and no maintainence records, so what else can >> I look at to determine the general state of repair? >> >> Thanks in advance, any and all advice is appreciated. >>
