To hold the assembly to unscrew the bolts holding the hub to the disk, I temporarily bolt the hub back on the wheel. It's a lot easier to hold the wheel than the hub or disk. Also, PB Blaster seems to help get those screws started. I also put a but of blue locktite on them when I reassemble. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean before assembling.

Scott Ritchey
Niceville, FL
1982 300 SD 220K miles
1979 300 TD 350K miles
----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Arnold" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 8:06 AM
Subject: [MBZ] HELP 300SDL ROTOR REMOVAL


Please cross post to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  As I only get the digest.

Doing brakes on my car.

I cannot find a section in the damn CD manual.

I've got caliper off.

Do I have to remoce the hub to remove the rotor?  Oh S&%t, I have no
new seals.

Please confirm or repute.

Regards

--

Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.

1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%

1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes

2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale

1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}

None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)

_______________________________________
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For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

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