I finally got around to shimming the alda today. The 300D would barely get to 80 floored before the fix. I have read a lot of accounts of the job, but there were a lot of details missing, so I felt i was flying blind
It takes a 24 mm thin open end wrench. I had one from my HF 1/2" shaft router. I did the job without taking off the intake manifold or injection lines. I did take off the electric idle control plug, the temp sensor from the intake, and most of the vacuum lines. Parts needed: I used a new oil drain plug copper seal. I have lots since i use an oil sucker. I took a dremel with a diamond grinder wheel and removed about half the crosssectional width of the ring. I was holding the ring with needlenose. THe ring was distorted some in the process, so when I was done, I tapped it down on my big punch to make the inside round again. It works like a ring sizer, if you have ever seen one of them. I made sure the ID would fit over the parts sticking up on the IP, then made sure the OD would fit inside the ALDA, then figured I was ready to re-assemble. Dave M has the shim specs at http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/ALDA_shim.jpg he says ID is 14.3 mm and the OD is 17.9 mm. Maybe someone has a source for the actual part. I like making what i have work. Tools needed: Thin 24 mm open end thin 27 mm open end. (I used a 1 1/16 and got the job done, but a thin 27 would make it a lot easier.) screwdriver to remove vacuum line from ALDA. 13mm box wrench to remove vacuum fitting from ALDA 10mm to remove inj line clip from the outside of the manifold telescoping magnet to help maneuver the ALDA back in place long straight screwdriver to help maneuver the ALDA back in place. Dremel and some wheel to abrade the outer surface of the ring. needlenose pliers large punch Remove the washer bottle. I didn't do this until re-assembly. Taking it off earlier makes the job easier. Remove the vacuum(pressure) line to the ALDA, and the fitting it attaches to. Be careful with the aluminum washer for the fitting. I lost mine even though i was being careful. Hold the big nut with the 27. Use the 24 to loosen the ALDA. Turn it CCW facing from above. There is a 24mm hex at the bottom of the ALDA body, even though you can't see it without a mirror. When the ALDA is unscrewed, you can get it out by tipping toward the engine, then moving it back. When you are satisfied with your grinder job on the washer, drop it on the stuff sticking up on the IP, and put the ALDA back on. Be careful not to crossthread. Tighten the ALDA down with the hole for the fitting pointing out as before. Finish reassembly in the reverse order. The road test: The car is probably still not as quick as my SDL was, but it is much improved. Now at 75-80 the pedal is barely down. I can mash the pedal at 80 and it has 'go" and that is a big improvement. Before the shim, the pedal was pretty much floored at 80. Dave's spec says the shim can be up to 1.5 mm. If I could find that shim, I'd put it in. I saw no signs of smoking, so I think I am only part way there. If I take off the manifold sometime, I will turn out the screw a turn or so and try that. The seal was still there, so I think it is safe to assume the ALDA is "un-messed with" before I got to it. My guess is that the oil plug washer is 1mm, and if a turn is .75mm, I think one turn on the adjustment screw will finish the job at 1.75mm cumulative. For now, it is reasonably well performing, so I won't monkey with it more unless I am in there anyway for something else. Loren _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
