I had an answer until you said making it still look antiQie. I will
go ahead with the suggestion anyhow.
Buy a bag of portland cement based cement for floor tiles. NOT
grout! Get a few trowels, at least a steel trowel for concrete and a
small mason's brick trowel. A tuck pointing trowel might be handy too.
First brush and blow off the surface with a wire brush and
broom. Mix up the cement with water until it is a little bit on the
wet side. It is very rich in portland cement and latex bonding
agent, so as the cement hydrates, it will get more dry. Trowel it on
and smooth it with the steel trowel. If some forms will help to mold
the new mixture from running, then build the forms first. The cement
is essentially the same as what your friendly local DOT specifies for
repairing bridge decks. The latex helps it bond to the crumbly
crete. If you want it more like the original, you can mix some
aggregate into it, if you are repairing centimeters, not mm. That
way, as it weathers, some of the aggregate can be exposed, like old crete.
Normally the object is to make it look smooth and new. I had an
8x8x12 chunk of step crumble off a few years ago. I mixed up this
stuff and and built a 2 side form on the step, slathered it up with
this mud , making sure it was worked enough to stick to the old
(con)crete, then I put in the biggest piece of the corner that
crumbled away, then filled up the form to match the rest of the
step. As it cured, some air bubbled worked up, so I trowelled it
similarly to normal concrete.
Because it is so rich and has all the latex in it, it will stick to
the steel trowel, where normal crete will shine your trowel. So, you
have to be a little careful. a light mist of water is ok also to
make the trowel slide easier.
As you smear the first light coat on, use the small brick trowel and
tuck point trowel so rub it in to all the crannies. You want to work
it a lot on the first layer. Once you are sure you have a cost
sticking to all the old concrete, then you can fill to where you want it to be.
Have a blast!.
Some ideas about "aging" the repair:
If you add aggregate, you can make exposed aggregate by washing the
surface and brushing it with a stiff broom after it has set, and
before it is cured. This has to be done on green concrete.
You could try etching the concrete after it is good, but within 24-30
hours by washing it with acid, as in cleaning mortar off new
brickwork. You can surely find details on the internet.
After the patch is cured, you can try letting moldy leaves rot on the
stile steps. other organic material rotting on the steps (keep it
moist) will age concrete. The tannic acid in leaves, and the black
mold from leaves or grass decaying make the concrete look older than it is.
At 06:51 PM 10/31/2008, you wrote:
Photos?
Wilton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fmiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes list" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 5:22 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT - way of topic, concrete restoration
> I have a 85 year old concrete stile on the edge of the
> yard. The fence it went over is long gone, but I find the
> relic pleasant. However, in the last few year, Nature has been
> rough on it. The lots-of-rock-with-a-bit-of-cement main
> structure is crumbling causing the top 3/4 inch (20 mm) of
> finish-concrete to break off.
>
> Since this list has an expert in _every_ facet of life...
>
> Any advice on how to save the antique concrete without making
> it look like it's brand new?
>
> -- Philip, trying to lead the list astray
>
> _______________________________________
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Loren Faeth
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