Take your mityvac and plug up various hoses at their ends, pull a vac on one and watch the gauge. If it starts leaking you can isolate it to a hose or vac element. The door locks are daisy-chained, right? That means the leak could be in a hose somewhere, a rubber fitting, the element, or whatever. Only way to find it is just start tracing from one end to the other. Or could be a slow leak in the brake booster itself, mine crapped out. Or maybe your brake pedal or the rod to the master cylinder is sticking a bit and leaving the booster "open" a tad?

--R

andrew strasfogel wrote:
I tried three separate driver's door lock elements and there was no
difference.
The hatch lock element was replaced recently so  should be OK, and it is a
royal PIA to change.

I tested today and the locks held less than 10 minutes.  The vacuum
reservoir is a possibility, but what sort of major rupture in the line could
have no effect on how the car runs or how quickly it stops?  I guess it
can't be under the hood, right?

On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 7:12 PM, Rich Thomas <
[email protected]> wrote:

There is an egg crate looking thing back underneath that is the reservoir,
it might be goobered or the line messed up.  I think there is a vac element
for the tailgate but I might be wrong on that.

--R

andrew strasfogel wrote:

The vacuum locks on my 1983 300TD had been sorted out and working
perfectly
- holding for 7+ days at a stretch, until two weeks ago.  Now, although
the
car operates as always and shuts off quickly, the locking system poops
out:
in less than an hour, the doors wont all unlock or lock.  I checked the
MB service manual but the section on TD wagons shows a different
configuration of lines under the RF and LF floor covers than in my
vehicle.
I have THREE upstream lines per side, not two as shown in the photos in
the
shop manual.  I have no idea which of hte three goes where.  :((

So I did what I usually do and removed three door panels nad checked the
vacuum elements there and in the easily accessible fuel door locking
element.  The only clue i could come up with was that the fuel door
locking
element was receiving a very weak locking and unlocking signal.  Yet, the
RR
door servo was fine.  They were all perfectly fine!  I could take off the
LR
door panel, but I am prettty sure that it will be OK as well.  All the
lines
on this car are a total mystery to me.  I need a tutor.  [end of
whine/rant].

Andrew
1983 300TD, 321K miles
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