I am not sure what the first 190D was.
The Ponton was a 190Db with the small b to separate it from the prior 190D
the 110 was Designated 190Dc to differentiate it from the two prior models.
Rust starts in the dead space behind the front inner fender
liiner. IF you buy the car, remove the liner and clean out and
repair first. Next is in front of the rear wheels. When rust starts
in the front or rear, then the rockers go. If the rockers are rusty,
you can bet the front is in bad shape, and the rear doglegs will be
close behind. When the rockers are gone, the doors don't close.
The fenders hold crud on top of the headlight buckets, and rust out
the fender behind the chrome ring. Look for putty here. Check the
bottoms of the doors. rust in doors will show up on the door bottoms first.
In the trunk, check the drains from the hinge pockets. THey drain
into the rockers. I always pull them out and drain into the
wheelwell. Sometimes in marine climates, the drain wells rust
out. Check for rust in the trunk wells. Right side should have the
spare and the jack and jack handle, unless the jack was replaced with
a 220Sb jack (111) with the crank. It is great! the OE 110 jack is
a pos. Originally, there was a tool kit, but don't expect to see one
with the car 44 years later
SHould be an owners manual, a parts book and a service book with
tearout stickers as a minimum. You might find radio info or other
similar stuff.
While you have the trunk open, try packing in a whole trap drum
set. It fits, with room to spare.
Power should be comparable to a manual 240D. Better than a 240D auto.
Driving, the 110 in good trim is a joy. Steering is light and
responsive. It is the most stable of any car I have ever
driven. Compared to modern cars, you are sitting in a greenhouse,
with great visibility all around. The speedo is odd, but it is
lovable once you get used to it. There is a nylon bushing in the
gear shift lever (under the nut) that disintegrates every few years,
making sloppy shifting.
You can buy pencil glow plug conversion kits from Q. That makes the
glow faster, but not as fast as an OM 60x. You need to periodically
add oil to the IP, in the cap marked oel, there is a level plug.
Check the boot on the axle. Check/change the diff fluid. Change the
trans fluid. it is ATF, not grease! Yes, manual trans uses ATF.
Check the washer "frog" they are way cool! the ring around the frog
should activate the wiper. The intermittent wiper thing on the stalk
of newer cars is never as good as just catching the ring with your
left foot for a single flip of "der drizzleflippen" whenever you need it.
Other places to check for rust is the front bunper mounts and the
rear bumper mounts. Fronts go first where the brackets attach to a
hollow frame. The hollow frame rots off.
Chassis number should be 110.110.10.02xxxx or maybe 110.110.10.019xxx
range, I think. (022xxx was a very early 66)
If you buy it, send pictures, especially one with you driving it
with a big grin on your face.
Good luck!
At 03:22 PM 5/17/2009, you wrote:
Might be looking at a '64 190D (seller calls it a "190Dc", but I never
heard that designation before). Four on the tree, new clutch master
and slave, supposedly runs and drives great.
I'm sure these rust like crazy, but where in particular?
Anything else to look out for, besides other drivers giving me the
finger as I struggle to maintain speed on the slightest incline?
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.
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Loren Faeth
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