Finally got to this job yesterday... it's actually went better than I
expected.  I had no trouble removing the old lines.  I had treated the
fittings with the acetone/ATF mix a couple of times over the past few
weeks.  I don't know if that helped, but they did open up without
stripping the threads or damaging the cooler.  I used anti-sieze on the
threads when I installed the new lines.

The hardest part was getting the new lines into the clips.  My
suggestion for anyone doing this... attach the ends at the cooler first.
They have a rubber hose section so the rest of the pipe will still be
moveable.  If you attach and tighten the lines at the filter, you won't
be able to reposition them.

Once the cooler ends are attached, install the retaining clamps (one
above the AC compressor, one near the motor mount) loosely.  Then attach
the lines to the filter, but leave them loose enough that the pipes can
still move.  Tighten the retaining clamps, then the snug up the nuts on
the filter.

I also replaced my motor mounts... the trick here is to be sure the
engine is lifted high enough.  The old collapsed mounts will slide out
easily but if the engine is not high enough the new ones won't slip in.

Allan

Loren Faeth <lfa...@leadingchange.com> writes:

> Allan,
>
> You will be able to detect that some of this is tongue in cheek, but
> this is how I would recommend how to go about it.  It is mostly
> serious.  If you go through all the preparation steps, it will save
> you having to stop and go acquire something else.
>
> Preparation
>
> 1.  Wash out the left side of the engine, hoses and oil cooler as well
> as you can at the carwash.  Steam cleaner is great, if you have access
> to one.  Wash upside down too.
> 2. buy a spare oil cooler.  Chances are the threads will be buggered
> up on yours, one side or the other.
> 3. get some Neverseize for the threads when you put the new hoses on.
> 4. Secure alternate transportation for a week or two if the project
> runs the normal course, and you have to wait for parts.
> 5.  Line up wrenches to fit the oil filter end (Adapter and nut) and
> the oil cooler end.
> 6. soak the oil cooler ends (nuts) with penetrating oil for 1-4 weeks
> in advance.
> 7.  Figure out a way to hold a 8-10 lb sledgehammer behind the nut
> while you whack it with a 2-4 lb hammer to loosen the corrosion.
> 8. designate a set of clothes to get covered in Diesel motor oil
> 9. buy a bag of floor dry
> 10. put the car up so you can crawl under it
> 11.  take a trial pull on the wrenches at the oil cooler fittings.
> Take care not to damage the oil cooler.  If things are normal, one
> will loosen with major effort, and the other won't.  Now you know
> which one is really corroded.
> 12. line up an air grinder with a cutoff wheel, a dremel or some
> similar way to cut through the really stuck nut.
>
> The actual job:
>
> 1.  Loosen oil filter cover  (It is a good time for an oil change)
> 2.  Loosen the nuts at the oil cooler.  Drain oil into a catch pan.
> 3.  Loosen the nuts at the oil filter
> 4.  loosen clamps that hold the hoses
> 5. remove the hoses, noting which one goes in which position and which
> one goes to which connection.  It is not easy, but it can be done.  I
> think I removed the left motor mount arm from the engine on the 240D
> to allow more room.  That means you need to support the engine from
> underneath.
> 6. install new hoses in reverse, putting neverseize on the cooler end threads.
>
> Simple huh?
>
> Notes:
> Plan on getting a bath in oil.
> You will need a trouble light to see the bolts on the clamps
> For the nut that is really stuck:  We assume you have already soaked
> it for a month.  Next try beating on the nut with the hammer, being
> careful not to damage the body or the oil cooler or your fingers.  the
> goal is not so much to bash the nut as to pein it many times with
> enough force that the corrosion in the threads will loosen.  Rest, Go
> at it again.  If you have an air chisel, you can accomplish this
> easier with an air chisel, but it does not have the mass of the
> hammer, so it may not loosen the corrosion.
>
> If that doesn't work:
>
> Decision time:  You will either have to throw out the oil cooler with
> attached hose and use the new used one,
> OR make a cut through the nut to try to get it to "pop" so that the
> corrosion will loosen.  This is irreversible and may result in needing
> to use the new used oil cooler
> OR you can cut the ferrule off the old hose, remove the hose from the
> hose end, leaving the hose end on the oil cooler.  Then you have to
> cut the ferrule on the NEW hose, pull out the hose end, slide the hose
> onto the old hose end.  Put a clamp on it.
>
> The hardest thing (aside form getting the stuck nut loose) is to keep
> a wrench on the aluminum lug on the oil cooler while you try to get
> that nut off without getting the oil cooler messed up beyond repair.
>
> If anyone sells a flare nut wrench of that size, it would be worth the
> money.  I don't remember the size, but i think it might be 19mm.
> Flare nut wrenches for the nuts on both ends would be nice also, but
> people rarely have trouble with the oil filter end, as it is steel to
> steel.
>
> Good luck!
>
> At 05:55 PM 8/25/2009, you wrote:
>>I will be replacing the oil cooler lines on my W123 soon.  Anyone know
>>of a good "how to" article for this job?
>>
>>Allan
>>--
>>1983 300D
>>
>>_______________________________________
>>http://www.okiebenz.com
>>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>>
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>
> Loren Faeth 
>
>
> _______________________________________
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

-- 
1983 300D

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