The dealership said my DVs were leaking internally which was causing the
engine to rock at idle --
I am now seeing fuel on the outsides of the IP connections. When the mood
moves me I'll pull the manifold and follow your excellent instructions.
You said to do them "one at a time" - is that to prevent mixing then up?
BTW, I bought the springs as well as the O-Rings and Copper Washers - Rusty
has them all.
Thx agn for the write up.
LarryT
91 300D
OilAnalysis Time?
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--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Frederick" <psf...@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 3:33 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lapping IP nozzle
Those are the delivery valves, and no , you should NEVER lap anything
related to the IP. The seal is with a rubber o-ring at the fuel chamber
and the copper seal on the plunger/sleeve set, and neither is going to
wear anywhere else (except the plunger to sleeve fit, and the only fix
there is a new set).
Obtain new o-rings and copper seals. Clean the IP completely, no dust or
grit or goo. Remove injection lines, then one and a time inscrew the
delivery valve holders. Lift the holder up carefully, remove the spring
and insert, then lift off the seal with a pick. Some seal at the base of
the screw in part, some have a seal at the TOP of the internal body, make
sure you put the seal back were it came out. Some people recommend
replacing the spring as well, they are not expensive. Remove the old
o-ring, roll the new one in place, grease with vaseline or silicone
grease, place the new copper seal properly, re-install the spring,
insert, and pressure valve body the way they originally were, then torque
the pressure valve holder to 25 Nm, release, torque again to 25 Nm,
release, then tighten to 30 Nm. No more, else you will distort the
injection pump, no less or it will surely leak internally. Repeat for
the remaining pressure valves. Re-install the injection lines, leaving
the cap nut at the injectors (not at the IP) loose. Crank until no more
air comes out, then tighten the cap nuts. Should start pretty quickly
after that.
It's unlikely the leak will cause more than fuel spillage -- also replace
ALL the fuel lines between the tank and the suction side of the lift
pump, and the hand pump if it's the old red handled screw down type --
the plunger seal leaks and lets air in. Air leaking into the suction
lines will cause the fuel to run low in the IP, making it very hard (and
eventually impossible) to start.
Peter
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_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
