Rusty has the socket. I have a spare I'd sell or loan. The special
socket, a T30 torx socket, and a torque wrench are all the special
tools you really need. Order at least one extra oring and copper
seal. clean everything in the area very thoroughly before starting.
It only takes a speck of grit or even lint to mess up an injector.
For cleaning: Pressure wash first is good. Then Diesel or #1 fuel
with a stiff brush and blow off with compressed air.
The first instructions apply to OM606. For OM 601/602/603, start at
"clean the top of the injector pump" You may or may not want to
remove the intake manifold. I have done it both ways. See notes at
the end of writeup.
Writeup is from John Reames, with notes added by Marshall and by me.
Applies to OM606 W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves. Most should
apply to OM603.
A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it
wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!)
It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out
to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous,
certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know.
Parts:
7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips)
7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims--trim them on one side)
2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips)
1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket OM 606 only, your gasket may vary)
6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares)
6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer)
(These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.)
Optional:
6x 001 074 34 93 Delivery valve spring.
Tools:
-8mm socket or nutrunner
-10mm socket
-6mm hex bit socket
-T-30 socket
-T-40 socket
-13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00
-32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00
-a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers
-some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics
cleaner)
-Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm -> 35Nm
-A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, "Scott" Brand)
misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4
reducer)
-a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel
Instructions:
-The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least the
middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places)
-You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe to
the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was missing!) as
well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR valve (10mm
bolt).
-Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic oversheild on
the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws)
-Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the
engine while everything is still closed up.
-Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the oil separator to the top of the
engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and breather
tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube ends on the
engine)
-Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think). There is one
hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6.
-Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line and
the boost pressure sensing line from the valve. Be cautious of the little
plastic clamp on the boost line. You may want to fill the manifold with
some cleaner to let it soak while you work
-Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the
engine), noting its orientation.
-Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler
pipe to keep crud out of them.
-Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc).
-Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how
the various clips attach to them. Take note of how the first two lines
run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses.
-Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will
likely break.
-Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The
special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine
side.
-Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to
the injection pump. Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the
pump.
-Remove all of the lock rings.
-Clean the top of the IP again--pay special attention to around the
delivery valves.
***
-Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery
valve holder. Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being
careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from
inside the pump.
-Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the
assembly that was under the valve holder.
-Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep the
ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore
-Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder. Use carb cleaner
or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush
it inside!)
-Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oin on
the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the
ring is well-oiled.
-Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of the
valve assembly and the spring. (The spring should seat on top of the
valve assembly into the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched.
-Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, torque the delivery valve
holder to 30Nm (22 ft-lb).
-Loosen the valve body maybe 1/8 turn (just enough to remove the
torque/pressure) and re-torque to 30Nm/22ft-lbs.
-Repeat the above step (This makes 3x torquing to 30Nm/22ft-lbs)
-Torque an additional 5Nm/4ft-lbs (This makes 35Nm/26ft-lbs in 2 stages)
-Repeat the above ten steps (from the *** mark) for the remaining delivery
valves. If any don't look right or feel right, or you just aren't sure if
it's right, remove it, inspect the O-ring for pinches/tears and do it
over. It's easy to do right now.
-After finishing all the valves, replace the lock rings, I think a decent
order to place the on is: 1-3-2-5-4-6, making sure that the holes all line
up for the retaining screws.
-Reinstall the retaining screws (T-30), making sure to "pre-load" the lock
rings to prevent loosening of the valve holders). Torque to
10Nm/7ft-lbs.
-Remove all of the rubber shims from the injection line brackets. Use one
of the old shims as a pattern to trim the new ones before installing the
new shims.
-Replace the injection lines. Where the pipes run together in pairs, the
odd number cylinder one should lay on top. Do not tighten the nuts yet.
Make sure that the low pressure fuel lines and bypass hose is routed
properly.
-Install all of the new clips (easier said than done, but a straight
screwdriver and a rubber mallet make it a little easier the install them).
-Torque all of the injection line nuts to 23Nm/17ft-lbs.
-Remove the rag bits for the oil separator and reinstall-Torque to
10Nm/7ft-lbs.
-You may want to clean the top of the engine a bit more here....
-Remove the rag bits from the intake ports and clean the gasket mating
surface. Ensure that no bits of rag tor off in the ports, etc.
-Slide in the new manifold gasket, making sure to place it in the same
orientation as the old gasket.
-Remove the rag from the intercooler pipe and gently lower the manifold
back into place. It is easier to reattach the vacuum and pressure lines
before bolting in the manifold.
-Ensure the manifold, gasket, and head are all properly aligned. Using a
bolt near each end usually helps keep things in place.
-Reinstall all of the 14 T-40 manifold bolts, giving each one a light
coating of anti-seize lubricant. After all are installed, torque them to
20Nm/14-15ft-lbs, double checking the torques after all are torqued.
-Reinstall the EGR tube clamp, it is possible to place it so the bolt is
accessible from above/beside the manifold.
-Clean the top of the engine (the injection pipe nuts especially) and the
top of the injection pump with a quick-drying spray solvent, so we can see
any leaks more readily.
-Jack the car again and reinstall the intercooler pipe to EGR bolt (torque
to 20Nm/14-15ft-lbs).
-Reinstall the underpans.
-Lower the car.
-To bleed the injection lines, depress the accelerator to the floor while
holding the key in the start position. After 40 seconds, stop, and let
the starter cool for 5 minutes or so. Repeat until the car starts and
runs. Run the car (1200rpm or so) until it smoothes out (this will make
sure that all the air is out of the lines.) It will sound like crap for
5 minutes or so.
-Let the car run for several minutes and check for fuel leaks at the top
of the injection pump and around the injection pipe nuts. Hopefully,
there are no leaks.
-Reinstall the valve cover overshield, torquing the 8 bolts to 10Nm/7ft-lbs.
-Close the hood and clean up!
-Attempt to convince your spouse that you can now afford some
expensive new toy with the money (probably close to $450 after
allowing for the two special sockets) that you just saved! (Let me
know how well you fare in that Endeavour!)
"John W. Reames III" <<mailto:jwrea...@comcast.net>jwrea...@comcast.net>
Nice writeup. One caution. Even if you torque the delivery valves
PERFECTLY, they might still distort the injection pump body. That will
cause noise (and damage if not promptly corrected) and result in
incorrect/uneven fuel delivery. The cure is to loosen and re-torque the
delivery valve for the cylinder that's misfiring. valve.
Even experienced pros using a torque wrench seem to distort the pump
maybe 1 out of 10 times (I'm told) and need to loosen and retighten the
valve. It may be that the earlier OM60x pumps are more touchy about this
than the later ones and I KNOW that the 6 cylinder versions are much
worse than the 4 or 5 cylinder pumps.
Marshall
I did it without removing the intake manifold, 603. I did remove the
air pipe form the turbo. Take loose Inj line clips at the bolts.
Push the back 3 lines aside, but don't try to remove the back three
lines with the unbolted manifold holders still clipped to the lines.
I know Marshall always cautioned about torqueing the delivery valves
carefully. My experience has been that everything is ok as long as
you follow the procedure and don't try to put on 36 Nm of torque in
place of 35.
BTW, the old German that trained me to work on Deutz Engines said
that 25 ft-lb is as tight as you can go with your thumb over the nut
. (in other words, with only 4 fingers on the wrench and your thumb
on the opposite side of the nut.) It is a great torque-limiting
technique. Notice that 25 ft-lb is just under 35 NM. I am so
confident in this that I can do the delivery valve job without a
torque wrench.
Dieselhead
Thx for the instructions! Yes, I'd like the full content. What do
you use to wash things off with as you work? Kero / Diesel?
Thanks -
LarryT
91 300D 602-962
OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 8:20 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel delivery valve job
Doing one at a time is excess work. I have done 4 OM603s with good
results by following the instructions. As with all injector work,
cleanliness is the primary concern. After the deck is cleaned, and
you start to remove the DVs, I back them out until the oring starts
to show, then wash the DV and deck again. When the oring is
leaking, it is crumbling. Lots of little black stuff is released
and needs to be washed off. As you back out the DV, keep washing
and blowing off the DV and deck.
I take off and replace one DV at a time, up to the final torque.
After the last DV is done, then replace the lines, bleed the air
and tighten down the line at the injector. I also replace the DV
springs while I am in there. It is just a precaution, and quite
inexpensive.
Don't replace only the leaking orings. You will be right back
doing the job again. Taking off the intake manifold does make the
job easier, but is not necessary. If I ever have need to remove
the intake manifold, I change the orings, unless I know the orings
are under 2 years old.
I also order 8 orings, 8 copper seals and 6 springs to do the job.
Sometimes it is necessary to pull one back out, and that usually
results in a cut oring, and the copper seal should also be
replaced. Having spares cuts a week off the duration of the job.
(Waiting for more orings to be delivered)
IF you don't have it, I will email the instructions I have
accumulated from this list over time. You need to be clean and be
careful, but it is not that hard of a job, and I think the dangers
are overstated, unless you try to use air tools to install the
delivery valves.
Max wrote <<Maybe you should only do the leaking DV's in order to reduce the
possibility of a problem?>>
That's a good idea. I'll have to clean things really good to
determine which is the primary culprit/s. Usually the engine is
pretty clean but it's been so cold that I haven't been able to
rinse it off. At the moment there's a thin film of diesel around
all 5 DV hold down clamps.
BTW, what kind of noise should I be listening for? I wonder how
the factory/dealer does them to make sure they "do it right the
first time" (also know as DIRTFT) ? I'm sure the factory uses a
special tool to screw all 5 or 6 in at once, but if I'm very
careful with my torque wrench I should be able to duplicate the
torque on each DV pretty precisely, I think.
I suspect the 3 stage procedure for torqueing is to insure
accuracy so there must have been problems in the past. Is the
metal on the IP where the DV's are installed perhaps soft which
could lead to inaccurate settings? Just curious ---
Thx for the suggestion - -
LarryT
91 300D
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