With Gump, it just makes sense to change the whole kaboodle when you do one. GP are cheap, injectors get balanced, bulbs all light up.

clay

On Jan 31, 2010, at 2:39 PM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

One addition note, Rich... every time I've replaced one or two glow plugs, I've ended up replacing the rest of them soon after. Do yourself a favor
and just do them all!

I have bad memories of working at midnight, in the street in front of a friends house, with temps in the teens just a few days after replacing a single plug. I paid $800 for that car and wasn't into putting much more into it, but very often trying to save money just results in being stranded.

Jaime


On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 5:32 PM, Rich Thomas <
[email protected]> wrote:

84 300SD, pencil plugs. I went to the auto parts store and got 2 new ones, will replace the bad one tomorrow, and see if I can try your method to get the amperage. I checked that there was 12V at each plug and there was, so it is sort of a mystery as to why 4 seemingly good plugs won't light off the engine. Maybe just not getting enough amps to heat them up? If I can't get things going with the new plug, I have a spare GP fuse I can try, though it
looked almost new.

--R


Fmiser wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:





The SD has been reluctant to start recently (in the "cold"
weather we have here) so I just checked on it.





Can that one bad glow plug cause the others not to
heat up?



You don't mention the car or the year - but I don't think any
5 cylinder SDs had the series plugs...

If it's older than about 1980, it might be series. If it is
series, then one bad will stop them all from working.



I don't have a amp clamp, but if there is 12V at the plug
wires at the relay it should be getting juice to all of them?

I'll go out to make sure there is 12V at each plug connector
to make sure the connector didn't go bad or something.



I'd check the big, screw down fuse under the glow plug relay
cover.  Those can fail even when the look good.  Replacing it is
probably a good idea.

(As Marshal would say, "CHANGE those FUSES.")

Regarding checking glow plugs, here's my favorite way.

(Note - this method is for the "new" parallel pencil plugs)

This method uses an old-fashioned automotive ammeter.  The
ones that display -30,0,+30. I put 12AWG wire leads on it.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the connector
for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow plug in this
connector, so I clip on meter lead to the fused side of the big,
screw-in fuse and then touch each contact, one at a time. The socket
has pin numbers molded into it, and these numbers correspond to the
cylinder number.
This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.



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