Hey that is an awesome writeup, I'm sure it will get referenced sometime soon.

Max if you want a good soldering station you need one like this http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU I have one and it is great. I used to use those cheap Radio Shack things and cuss every time, I finally sprung for this for my new electronics hobbies/endeavors, and it is SO easy to get a good joint, it is amazing. You can get different tips, a tiny one is great for circuit boards and such.

--R

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
Dieselvolk,

Last night I finally sorted out the cruise control on my '87 300TD.
Thanks Jim for your excellent trouble shooting write-up, which I used to
decide that the cruise control amplifier was not working.
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html#cruisetest I
pulled out the CC amp and re-soldered all the joints that look
suspicious to my eye (about 1/4 of them or less), re-installed in the
car and despite my doubts the system actually works!  It will perform
all functions, but it is jerky when the engine has to accelerate and
then release.  For instance, setting the CC will sometimes result in
some stuttering.  Going over small hills causes some stuttering.  The CC
take-up following stalk deceleration is very smooth, but there is
stuttering after stalk acceleration. By stutter I mean that there will
consistently be one jerk following stalk acceleration, and sometimes the
same single jerk following setting the CC.  Hills can cause the system
to jerk several times then shut off.

I did get some odd results from the measurements on the actuator motor.
The motor windings measured about 10 ohms vice 5, and during the third
test (with the three jumpers between various pins, key on but motor off)
the actuator would move and the resistance would fall smoothly from 2.7k
ohms to about 200 ohms, but when I held the stalk in the Accel position
to drive the resistance to zero, the resistance would spike and I could
hear the actuator jumping around.

So, I'm not sure if the remaining ill behavior is all the fault of the
actuator (or maybe linkages needing lube), or a part of the CC amp which
is still not working.  My gut tells me that the amp is still not working
100%.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 321k miles
'95 E300 274k miles (project)
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC



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