I did them on my wagon with the press that Rusty rents (which presses the new 
joints into place) plus:
- hack saw
- 10 lb maul
- jack stands
- lots of practice splitting firewood
 
(note that no spring compressor is needed).
 
To remove, put a jack stand under the control arm as close as possible to the 
ball joint  You want to support the control arm very near the joint.  Take off 
all the bits in the way, until all you have is the stem of the ball joint 
sticking up.  Cut that stem off flush with hack saw.  Pound out remains with 10 
lb maul (about 30 to 40 careful blows). The jack stand being close to the joint 
transfers the energy from the hammer blow directly to the joint without 
allowing the control arm to flex.  Mess up one swing and your fender will be 
scared forever.
 
After completing the job this way, I resolved to pay the man next time.
 
-Max

________________________________

From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 3/27/2010 7:51 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.



Jim, Thanks.  That is helpful.  But I see you used the flame wrench
to get the ball joint loose.  I don't have a flame wrench available.
I'd sure use it if I had it!  Not having the torch, I am reluctant to
try this myself.

So has anyone changed the 124 (or 201)ball joints without the torch
and without the official MB tools?
  (and without the spring compresser)

>>Can this [124] be done with the HF ball joint kit, or are
>>there modifications that require a flame wrench?
>
>I think it's pretty much the same as the 201.  See:
>
>http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190d.html#30Aug2008
>
>The base HF kit works, but you need some pipe scraps too.
>I did a bit of welding on the pipe scraps, but hose clamps
>might work just as well.
>
>-- Jim
>
>
>
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