Speaking of A/C - I think I now have enough W123 cars that need A/C repair to 
learn to do it myself.

If I step away from Harbor Freight and get better quality gauges and vacuum, 
what brands/sources/retailers would be a good place to start. Regarding the 
vacuum, I have an 80 gallon Champion compressor - are air -assisted Venturi 
pump vacs worthwhile or should I go electric? I won't say money is no object 
but I prefer to buy quality when it makes sense.

Thank you,
Dave
SoCal



On Jun 27, 2010, at 8:38 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

> If it leaks down in a month, likely there will be enough dye at the leak to 
> see.
> 
> Since you are going to open it to fix the leak, I would suggest a new 
> receiver/dryer or accumulator (depending on the style of AC, I don't know 
> which one Chrysler used), fresh oil in the compressor, and replacing all the 
> 0-rings.  If one is bad, the rest aren't far behind!
> 
> Check the condensate drain for traces of dye, it's possible you have a 
> cracked evaporator.  I don't know if this is a common problem on a PT 
> Cruiser, but they DO fail.  Ditto for the condenser -- they are subject to 
> corrosion and road damage, being the most vulnerable part of the system and 
> under the most heat and pressure stress.
> 
> Probably a good idea to clean out the space between rad and condenser, likely 
> it's full of trash.
> 
> Check the hoses for leaks at the compression fittings, too, especially the 
> high pressure and hot ones.  Check the fittings on the compressor as they can 
> leak, notably the high pressure side as the o-rings erode there.  Ditto for 
> compressor front seal, although that one may be hard to find.  Best to use a 
> thermal conductivity or combustion type leak detector there if you have 
> access to one, as the dye will be present only under the clutch and likely 
> not very visible.
> 
> Good luck -- I've been hunting for a leak that size on my 300TE for about six 
> years now.....
> 
> Peter
> 
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