The flex discs have under 10k miles on them (both front and rear.

The center bearing felt good when I replaced the discs, and the rubber around 
it was uncracked and pliable (but not mushy). I marked the shaft w/r/t the 
spiders on the transmission and diff.  The new discs were installed in the same 
orientation as the old ones, and the shaft was positioned the same w/r/t my 
placement marks. I cleaned and relubed the centering sleeves; they looked good.

I did a visual on the boots when i took the temps, and no cracks to be seen, 
and no grease was to be seen. 

Should the wheel be drooping or supported when trying to turn it?

How do you check 210 diff mounts? They appear to be bushing type that are 
pressed into the rear of the subframe...

-j.

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jul 18, 2010, at 13:30, Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Do a visual check of the rubber in the driveline (flex disks, boots, dif 
> mounts, ete) and replace any that show signs of serious age.  
> 
> You can check the drive axle half by jacking it up and holding the shaft 
> while attempting to rotate the wheel.  A bad outer joint will have distinct 
> play and "clank" when you do this, just like a bad front CV joint. 
> 
> It's unusual for a joint to fail with an intact boot, but not unheard of -- 
> these are  fairly flow flex joints, unlike those on front wheel drive cars.
> 
> I do think you are on the right track, though, as whatever is making the 
> noise pretty much has to be rotating.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net>
>> Sent: Jul 18, 2010 10:35 AM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> Subject: [MBZ] 1999 e300 rear end noise
>> 
>> It can be reproduced more easily after running a few miles. 
>> 
>> The best way to reproduce it is to accelerate (in drive) and then take your 
>> foot completely off the pedal. 
>> 
>> On the highway, when the car slows sufficiently to downshift into 4th, a 
>> speed dependent rattle can be heard. If this is done in "4", so the car 
>> cannot downshift, the noise is not heard.
>> 
>> At about 65-70, the rattling is more like a vibration. I haven't tried 
>> forcing the car to not downshift at slower speeds, but the timing is 
>> approximately the same. At slower speeds, the noise is a more distinct 
>> rattling noise, almost like an exhaust pipe against a frame rail, except on 
>> the passenger side. (i have tweaked the exhaust alignment to create more 
>> space between the rail and muffler, and the noise remains unchanged).
>> 
>> I am suspecting a cv joint at this time, so I crawled under the car and used 
>> a non-contact thermometer to "shoot" the joints from about 1.5" away. I used 
>> the same positioning and distance on all of the joints.
>> 
>> For the inner joints, I measured at the metal where the inner end of the 
>> boot attaches. Both sides were approximately 125 degrees, and were within 
>> 2-3 degrees of each other. For the outer joints, the passenger side was 
>> about 15-20 degrees hotter than the driver side (120 driver, 135 passenger). 
>> 
>> The diff was 150 degrees.
>> 
>> Any thoughts/next steps? 
>> 
>> The exhaust is on the driver side, btw.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> -j.
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> _______________________________________
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> 
> 
> _______________________________________
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