I'll triple check tonight. Its kinda hard to find both lefts and rights that 
are slightly sloped... And where I can keep it in the 10-20 mph range.


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jul 22, 2010, at 12:34, "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310" 
<meade.m.dil...@navy.mil> wrote:

> Then the left side is suspect.
> 
> -Max 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of John Reames
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 11:02 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1999 e300 rear end noise
> 
> The noise does seem to disappear on right turns.
> 
> --
> John W Reames
> jwrea...@comcast.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
> 
> On Jul 22, 2010, at 7:18, "Dillon, Meade M CIV
> SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310" <meade.m.dil...@navy.mil> wrote:
> 
>> Easy to test an axle joint - weave side to side at speed with it's 
>> making noise; the bad axle gets louder when it's on the outside (under
> 
>> load).
>> 
>> -Max
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
>> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of John Reames
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 6:25 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1999 e300 rear end noise
>> 
>> Well the sound is getting easier to make and to hear. 
>> 
>> At 10-20mph, on a a slight downhill under powered deceleration, it's 
>> kind of a thumping. Going up a slight hill with a steady speed (held 
>> by slight pedal input), the frequency is the same, but it is
> different...
>> More like (solid) tappets running while covered with sticky grease.
>> 
>> I can hear it best with the only the rear passenger window down... 
>> With the rear driver window down, nothing.
>> 
>> I'm now betting axle; passenger, outer cv.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>> On Jul 20, 2010, at 20:00, John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> Further observations..
>>> 
>>> There is definitely a rear end noise.. When slowly stopping or
>> starting (ie in a garage), with the windows down, it sounds like a 
>> single hit of an exhaust pipe on chassis/body underpanel.
>>> 
>>> When "coasting"; that is a steady speed on reasonably flat ground
>> (slight incline is ok, decline not so much), with the foot off the 
>> pedal, at slow (crawl) speeds, the noise is almost identical and is 
>> repetitive.  By 10-15mph, each noise is too brief to characterize, but
> 
>> the frequency is up to 3-4 per second. By 25-30, it is in the 6-8Hz 
>> range, and it's hard to pick up over 30.
>>> 
>>> At highway speeds, pulling off the pedal will result in a brief
>> vibration (1 sec) during downshifts.
>>> 
>>> Due to rain, I have been unable to pull a wheel and jack it...
>>> I hope to be able to tomorrow night when I get home from work.
>>> 
>>> --
>>> John W Reames
>>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>>> Home: +14106646986
>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>> 
>>> On Jul 18, 2010, at 21:05, John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> The flex discs have under 10k miles on them (both front and rear.
>>>> 
>>>> The center bearing felt good when I replaced the discs, and the
>> rubber around it was uncracked and pliable (but not mushy). I marked 
>> the shaft w/r/t the spiders on the transmission and diff.  The new 
>> discs were installed in the same orientation as the old ones, and the 
>> shaft was positioned the same w/r/t my placement marks. I cleaned and 
>> relubed the centering sleeves; they looked good.
>>>> 
>>>> I did a visual on the boots when i took the temps, and no cracks to
>> be seen, and no grease was to be seen. 
>>>> 
>>>> Should the wheel be drooping or supported when trying to turn it?
>>>> 
>>>> How do you check 210 diff mounts? They appear to be bushing type 
>>>> that
>> are pressed into the rear of the subframe...
>>>> 
>>>> -j.
>>>> 
>>>> --
>>>> John W Reames
>>>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>>>> Home: +14106646986
>>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>>> 
>>>> On Jul 18, 2010, at 13:30, Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Do a visual check of the rubber in the driveline (flex disks, 
>>>>> boots,
>> dif mounts, ete) and replace any that show signs of serious age.  
>>>>> 
>>>>> You can check the drive axle half by jacking it up and holding the
>> shaft while attempting to rotate the wheel.  A bad outer joint will 
>> have distinct play and "clank" when you do this, just like a bad front
> 
>> CV joint.
>>>>> 
>>>>> It's unusual for a joint to fail with an intact boot, but not
>> unheard of -- these are  fairly flow flex joints, unlike those on 
>> front wheel drive cars.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I do think you are on the right track, though, as whatever is 
>>>>> making
>> the noise pretty much has to be rotating.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Peter
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net>
>>>>>> Sent: Jul 18, 2010 10:35 AM
>>>>>> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>>>>> Subject: [MBZ] 1999 e300 rear end noise
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> It can be reproduced more easily after running a few miles. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The best way to reproduce it is to accelerate (in drive) and then
>> take your foot completely off the pedal. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On the highway, when the car slows sufficiently to downshift into
>> 4th, a speed dependent rattle can be heard. If this is done in "4", so
> 
>> the car cannot downshift, the noise is not heard.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> At about 65-70, the rattling is more like a vibration. I haven't
>> tried forcing the car to not downshift at slower speeds, but the 
>> timing is approximately the same. At slower speeds, the noise is a 
>> more distinct rattling noise, almost like an exhaust pipe against a 
>> frame rail, except on the passenger side. (i have tweaked the exhaust 
>> alignment to create more space between the rail and muffler, and the 
>> noise remains unchanged).
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I am suspecting a cv joint at this time, so I crawled under the 
>>>>>> car
>> and used a non-contact thermometer to "shoot" the joints from about
> 1.5"
>> away. I used the same positioning and distance on all of the joints.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> For the inner joints, I measured at the metal where the inner end
>> of the boot attaches. Both sides were approximately 125 degrees, and 
>> were within 2-3 degrees of each other. For the outer joints, the 
>> passenger side was about 15-20 degrees hotter than the driver side 
>> (120 driver, 135 passenger).
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The diff was 150 degrees.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Any thoughts/next steps? 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The exhaust is on the driver side, btw.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>> -j.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> John W Reames
>>>>>> jwrea...@comcast.net
>>>>>> Home: +14106646986
>>>>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>>>>> _______________________________________
>>>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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