The single serpentine belt was replaced less than 100 miles ago, with the
water pump and idler pulley, and doesn't appear to be slipping. It has been
one max cooling today both on the drive and during the limited testing.
Thanks - I have a nice list to go through tomorrow ---

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 9:47 PM, Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net>wrote:

> If you have 70 psi with the compressor off, it has plenty of freon to cool
> at least decently.  Look for a loose wire, a slipping drive belt (if you
> have two belts, there may not be a speed sensor), and try switching to max
> cold to see if it runs then.
>
> A bad evaporator temperature switch will shut the compressor off it it
> falsely senses that the evaporator is reaching 32F -- I'm not sure if
> shorted or open is the case here, depends on which type of thermistor is
> used.  check the wiring for the evaporator temp sensor to make sure it's not
> partially unplugged or intermittantly shorted.
>
> You could also have a bad low pressure switch.  It will be on the
> receiver/dryer, uplug the two "tails" and short them together.  If the
> compressor then runs properly and you get cold air, it's the switch.  Best
> to do this with the gauges installed, as it wont' take long with no charge
> to lock up the compressor -- no lubrucation!
>
> Also make sure your KLIMA relay is good (may be expensive if it's a
> combined relay instead of separate!) -- this is another place where you can
> get intermittant operation.
>
> Peter
>

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1991 300E
1990 300D 2.5T
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