My brother has a '42 International KB7 5-ton stake bed that he uses almost 
daily for various chores, including pulling a rolling chassis of a 
semitractor a few hunderd miles, and hauling everything from rock to antique 
machinery. It was slathered with flat white latex house paint 
decades ago by a former owner, and the butterfly hood has rusty barn strap 
hinges tack-welded to it. THe whole thing was covered with 
moss when he bought it. 

I suggested powerwashing, and he was mortified. "You'll ruin the patina!" He 
was right. the thing is a rolling piece of folk art. Since my 
brother looks like Pa Joad after a rough day (gets a haircut every couple 
years, shaves maybe once a week, greasy overalls, jack-shirts that 
look like they've been run through a limb chipper) and is always accompanied by 
Jesse, a rescued junkyard mutt who frequently sleeps 
under my brother's oil-dripping semi, the whole thing looks like it was ordered 
by central casting for a remake of the Grapes of Wrath. 
Restoring that truck would be a crime. 

It runs wonderfully, on the other hand, and will pull a house. When his farmer 
friend cooked the automatic in his tonner dually 4X trying to 
get a backhoe on a trailer up a steep and rough off-road grade, Geoff hooked 
onto him and pulled the whole mess up the hill with the KB. 
That's what a 6:1 compression, an 89 hp stroker six and deep reduction will do. 
You can actually clutch into the lowest of ten gears, climb 
out of the truck and have both feet on the ground before the crank rotation can 
take up all the gear lash and u-joint slop and the truck 
actually starts inching forward. 

"That," says Geoff, "is a truck."

Dan



------- Original Message -------
>From    : mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com[mailto:mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com]
Sent    : 10/6/2010 7:00:01 AM
To      : mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc      : 
Subject : RE: Mercedes Digest, Vol 59, Issue 23

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Way OT: Recipes for Pickled hot peppers and pole beans
      (andrew strasfogel)
   2. Re: '94 E420 Ignition Cable Question (Craig)
   3. Re: R-985 (relng...@aol.com)
   4. Re: '94 E420 Ignition Cable Question (Craig)
   5. Re: restoration or patina (relng...@aol.com)
   6. Re: restoration or patina (Dimitri Seretakis)
   7. Re: OT: Garage Door problems
      (Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,       53310)
   8. Re: OT: Garage Door problems
      (Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,       53310)
   9. Re: 300SD feel every bump
      (Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,       53310)
  10. Re: OT: Garage Door problems
      (Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,       53310)
  11. Re: 617 Manual Flywheel Measurements
      (Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,       53310)
  12. Re: Way OT: Recipes for Pickled hot peppers and pole beans
      (Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,       53310)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 22:39:35 -0400


Gilroy, CA - the garlic capital of the world.

On Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 10:07 PM, OK Don <okd...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I agree with Max, but substitute my wife for his, and with Rich, we need
> independent verification!
> The only good Italian resturant I've ever eaten in was owned and run by a
> couple of second generation Italians, here in Norman. They retired a few
> years back, and I've about given up on Italian resturants. You just have to
> cook it yourself.
>
> On Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 8:33 PM, Rich Thomas <
> richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
>
> > I think the list needs some independent verification of your claims.
> >
> > --R
> >
> >
> > On 10/5/2010 9:09 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
> > wrote:
> >
> >> In general, I avoid most Italian food places and dishes unless prepared
> by
> >> my wife or an Italian friend or relative.
> >>
> >> -Max
> >
> >
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
> _______________________________________
>  http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
>


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 21:25:59 -0600


On Tue, 5 Oct 2010 21:37:26 -0400 Jaime Kopchinski <jaime...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Ignition leads from this time period use screw on connectors.
> 
> You use this tool:
>  http://www.beruparts.com/product.sc?productId=271&categoryId=6 
> 
> To crimp on terminals that look like this:
>  http://www.beruparts.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=8 
> 
> Then you screw on the end:
>  http://www.beruparts.com/product.sc?productId=250&categoryId=12 

Good information, Jaime! THANK YOU!


> I recently build wires for my '95 E320 using this method.  The parts
> are available as needed from the dealer.  The complete wires were not
> available, you had to build them.

When I ordered the new rubber cap from Rusty, he also said the complete
wires were not available. Unfortunately, he only sold me the rubber cap,
which is the same part number (000 159 28 42) as shown on your third
link, but not the crimp on terminals. (Your second link has them
100/$70.00, which is a little pricey since I only need one.)

My existing cable still has the terminal on its center wire; I'll send a
picture in a separate email so this one doesn't have to wait for Kaleb. I
think I do need to replace the terminal (and I have access to a lot of
different types of crimping tools at work).


Craig



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 23:31:15 EDT


> ...Those were P&W R985s - 9 cylinders each, 450HP, IIRC.
> Checked it - there were at least four different engines on various 
> versions
> of the D-18, but I think the R985 was the most popular...
> 
Also used on the DeHavilland Beaver and Grumman Goose, both in my logbook.

RLE
> 
> 


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 21:46:52 -0600


On Tue, 5 Oct 2010 21:09:22 -0500 OK Don <okd...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Rusty provided a new set of ready-made wires for my 450SLC, have you
> called him?

He was the one from whom I got the new rubber cap with the terminal
buried inside. As I replied to Jaime, he also said the ready-made wires
were not available.


Craig



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 23:56:41 EDT


> ...Original cars are always worth more, and will increase in value faster 
> as a collector car.? An original interior with a bit of wear is worth more 
> than a replacement one.? Same with paint, etc.? This concept may sound 
> crazy to some who think restored=good. In reality, unrestored=good. Over 
> time, 
> restorations fade and the shortcuts become obvious.? An original car, kept 
> well, will always hold value in all markets....
> 
Well now, wait a minute. Your comments apply only to a very narrow portion 
of the collector car market and almost always apply to a significant car 
with verifiable provenance. For example, I saw a barn-find Jag XKE at a 
Monterey auction some time back that supposedly was either an early factory 
prototype (or maybe a significant racing history, can't remember which) which 
looked like it had been out in the woods for decades. Not even cleaned up in 
any 
significant way and it sold for an astonishing amount. In the last few 
years, the idea of unmolested patina has interested a certain segment of buyers 
but it only applies to cars with an important and verifiable history. 
Something raced by Juan Fangio or a LeMans winner etc. It certainly does not 
apply 
to an ordinary production car that one might expect to actually drive 
someplace. I'm also not referring to what's been offered at Barrett-Jackson of 
late, either. 

I claim some hands-on knowledge here, having spent nearly fifteen years of 
my life working with my friend SJB restoring three significant collector 
cars to factory original 100% correct condition. His money, our time and I 
enjoyed it immensely.

I'm thinking your definition of "restored" vs mine differs a bit.

RLE


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 03:53:33 -0700 (PDT)


Yes but a low mileage original mundane car like a 240D is worth a lot more than 
any restored one. Same applies for middle of the road 
collector cars like pagodas.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 5, 2010, at 11:56 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

...Original cars are always worth more, and will increase in value faster 
as a collector car.  An original interior with a bit of wear is worth more 
than a replacement one.  Same with paint, etc.  This concept may sound 
crazy to some who think restored=good. In reality, unrestored=good. Over time, 
restorations fade and the shortcuts become obvious.  An original car, kept 
well, will always hold value in all markets....

Well now, wait a minute. Your comments apply only to a very narrow portion 
of the collector car market and almost always apply to a significant car 
with verifiable provenance. For example, I saw a barn-find Jag XKE at a 
Monterey auction some time back that supposedly was either an early factory 
prototype (or maybe a significant racing history, can't remember which) which 
looked like it had been out in the woods for decades. Not even cleaned up in 
any 
significant way and it sold for an astonishing amount. In the last few 
years, the idea of unmolested patina has interested a certain segment of buyers 
but it only applies to cars with an important and verifiable history. 
Something raced by Juan Fangio or a LeMans winner etc. It certainly does not 
apply 
to an ordinary production car that one might expect to actually drive 
someplace. I'm also not referring to what's been offered at Barrett-Jackson of 
late, either. 

I claim some hands-on knowledge here, having spent nearly fifteen years of 
my life working with my friend SJB restoring three significant collector 
cars to factory original 100% correct condition. His money, our time and I 
enjoyed it immensely.

I'm thinking your definition of "restored" vs mine differs a bit.

RLE
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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 07:07:01 -0400


Randy,

I closely compared the two doors, but the difference between the bad and
the good was not obvious - they BOTH seem to have a lot of slop/play in
my opinion.

-Max 

-----Original Message-----


Start looking for worn components. Loose rails or sloppy bearings on the
rollers.

Something is permitting too much play in the whole thing.

Randy

-----Original Message-----



Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
> OK, so how does one balance the springs?

Should be an adjuster where the back end of the spring attaches to the
garage or somewhere on the cable. I'm soo glad the new doors have
torsion springs.

Mitch.

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------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 07:10:57 -0400


Thanks Philip, that sounds like something I can attempt rather easily.
Method should work fine, I'm hoping that the adjustment mechanism for
tension of the cables is a reasonable one.

-Max 

-----Original Message-----


> Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

> OK, so how does one balance the springs?  I think that I have a copy 
> of the installation manual that I can dig up, and Google knows all, 
> but maybe someone knows the clever/quick/efficient way to get it done.

The way I did it - on my 16ft wide door (too big, in my opinion
- but that's what was there)

 * Disconnected the electric opener
 * While moving it by hand
    * watch and feel all the way through the travel.
    * adjust the tension on one or the other spring.  I don't
      know what the correct installation is for those spring,
      but mine are hooked to solid frame at one end and cabled
      to a pulley at the other end.  Changing the length of
      the cable changes the tension.
 * repeat until satisfied, frustrated, or out of time
 * reconnect the electric opener and test

--    Philip



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------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 07:22:27 -0400


I've got one. It's been rebuilt once (still leaked down), and it is
still on the mount. How does $25 sound? I think that there is an extra
o-ring inside the small round valve assembly that I missed when I
rebuilt this one.  I had the kit of new o-rings from MB, but
circumstances beyond my control caused me to rush the job, and during
clean-up later I found one last new o-ring that I failed to replace.
Could be that there was an extra in the kit, but I think I just missed
it.

This was after two rebuilds and a used valve all failed over about a 6
month period; finally I bought a new valve from Rusty for $200 and moved
on.  I think someone had mistakenly offered the new valves for $200 -
shortly afterward the price jumped to over $300 I think.

After swapping a few on my '85 300TD, now sold, I realized that it's far
easier to remove the lines and then the mount from the body of the car,
[overhaul or replace] and then to install by finger-tightening the lines
and then screwing the mount to the body, with the valve attached.

-Max

-----Original Message-----


Speaking of the control valve. Does anyone happen to have one for a
early 80,s 300TD? Doesn't have to work as I want to see what they are
like inside. Mine may be none functional.

Manfred





Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 21:50:49 -0400



Does your model have hydraulic level control?  If so and the spheres are
shot (they always go eventually), it will feel like a rigid (no shocks
no
springs) back end.  The good news is spheres are not that expensive.
The less-good news is replacement (job 32-620) is a messy.  The bad news
is you can screw up some expensive parts (like struts and the control
valve) if you
drive too long with failed spheres.


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------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 07:24:48 -0400


I'll double check them, but I'm pretty sure they all are free to move.

-Max 

-----Original Message-----


Every time I have had this problem, the cure has not been lube for the
wheels, but rather the shafts being stuck in the hinge/holder. 
That causes one side to bind.

(except the time one spring broke, but that was obvious.

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------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 07:26:22 -0400


STD sounds interesting, Schuman site does not sound appealing to me.

-Max 

-----Original Message-----


He's talking bout the std forum.

Walt

On Oct 5, 2010 4:28 PM, "Mitch Haley" <m...@voyager.net> wrote:

Rolf wrote:
>
> If your interested in squeezing some performance beyond good 
> maintenance,
its the be...
Are you talking about schumanautomotive.com???
I'm pretty sure Meade/Max was.

Mitch.



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------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 07:39:39 -0400


Yes, indeed it does!  I know just the fellow to provide objective
culinary reporting - let me check with the Social Director to see when
we can fit you in.  

Last night was Chicken Alfredo made with left-overs, so it was
chicken/sausage/steak alfredo with peas, but still more tasty and
interesting (and healthier) than Carraba's, which is just around the
corner from our house.  Carraba's actually does a great job with meat
dishes, but I find their pasta dishes to be way to rich and over-done.

-Max

-----Original Message-----


beans

I think the list needs some independent verification of your claims.

--R

On 10/5/2010 9:09 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
> In general, I avoid most Italian food places and dishes unless
prepared by my wife or an Italian friend or relative.
>
> -Max
>
>    

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------------------------------

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End of Mercedes Digest, Vol 59, Issue 23
****************************************



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