Good write-up and photo series. Which reminds me, there is a leak around the
water pump on the ML320 -- which is only 1½ years old. This means that the
indie shop that replaced it botched the job. I can't see around the pump
well enough to tell exactly where it's coming from, but there aren't many
other options in the neighborhood. I did have to add a quart or so of
coolant tonight to top off the tank - that was getting near the the min
mark, so it's not too bad a leak - that was lost over 6 months or so. I'll
add the gasket set for the water pump to the Rusty list --- and the job to
my list.

On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 10:44 PM, Craig <[email protected]> wrote:

> Since I got the '94 E420 running, I noticed that its temperature was low
> when it was cold outside. A few weeks ago, I changed the thermostat and
> found more joy under the hood. :-)
>
> I took pictures of the process and have attached them.
>
> Picture 0  shows the overall view of the engine compartment after I
>           started. I took the upper radiator hose off the engine and
>           rotated it vertically to keep antifreeze from draining out.
>           I had already taken off the part to which the upper radiator
>           hose attached, thinking that that was where the thermostat
>           was. I was wrong. (You can see the aluminum casting sitting
>           on the left distributor cover just above the power steering
>           fluid reservoir.)
>
> Picture 1  shows a close-up of the mating parts to that which I removed.
>           I should have put the part back on, but I left it off thinking
>           I would need the extra room.
>
> Picture 2  shows where the thermostat is (it's in the part to which the
>           large rubber ell hose connects -- at this point, though, I
>           wasn't entirely sure, thanks to the WONDERFUL W124 manuals).
>
> Picture 3  shows the tightening screw of the lower hose clamp that needs
>           to be loosened.
>
> Picture 4  shows the ell hose off and the back screw of the thermostat
>           housing being removed. The engine oil dip stick needs to be
>           forcibly pushed out of the way.
>
> Picture 5  shows the custom tool needed to hook under the bottom lip of
>           the ell hose and pull it up to loosen the bond of the rubber to
>           the aluminum and remove it from its lower connection. This tool
>           was actually made to twist the steel wire ties around re-bar
>           when one is preparing the steel work for reinforced concrete.
>           Since I had done that kind of work in the past, I had one
>           around.
>
> Picture 6  shows the tool needed to pull the thermostat out of its
>           housing. The joint between the thermostat and the hose adaptor
>           that attaches over it is with a small o-ring that the hose
>           adaptor compresses against the thermostat and outer housing. If
>           it's been there awhile, it doesn't want to come out!
>
> Picture 7  show the thermostat out! Even if it had been good, it is now
>           headed for the trash can.
>
> Picture 8  shows another view of the area with the thermostat out.
>
> Picture 9  shows the thermostat in and the large ell hose reconnected.
>           Getting the hose back on was even more fun than getting it off,
>           since it's so short and overlaps the hose adaptors on both of
>           its ends by a large percentage of its length. Recall that I
>           said the dip stick needed to be pushed forcibly out of the way?
>           If you're not careful, you can push the plastic end of the dip
>           stick and break it off, like I did. Fortunately, it's sealed
>           by o-rings, so nothing will get down into the pan. My neighbor
>           said changing the thermostat on his big Chevy van was a real
>           bear of a job, so I guess I don't feel so bad. The W123 617 is
>           so much nicer, though.
>
> Picture 10 Remember when I said I should have put back on the piece I
>           originally took off? When its off, the gasket, which has
>           adhered to the part still attached to the block, can be
>           damaged and you get to make a new one. Here's the start of the
>           process.
>
> Picture 11 shows the completed gasket on the part it is to seal.
>
> Picture 12 shows the part ready with Permatex 6B blue silicone to receive
>           the gasket.
>
> Picture 13 shows the gasket on the part and with a coat of Permatex,
>           ready to be put back on the engine. After this point, it's
>           trivial.
>
>
> Craig
>
> --
>
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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