"Allan Streib" <str...@cs.indiana.edu> writes: > Actually my book (W116 Chassis manual, section 72) does not talk about > anything called a "regulator." The instructions for removing the > electric window "opener" and also the drive motor alone both call for > drilling the holes to access the motor mounting bolts. The instructions > for removing the "opener" say to remove the drive motor and "set aside" > then proceed to remove the opener. They also say to start with the > window all the way down, which is going to be a problem since mine is > all the way up right now.
I tackled this job this afternoon. I marked and drilled the required access holes to reveal the bolts holding the motor to the opener, aka regulator. The book said to drill 20mm holes (over 3/4 inches) and I don't have any bits that big so I drilled 1/2" holes. I was pretty close, and used a dremel to grind a bit where I wasn't quite centered over the bolt. I removed the bolts, and the motor came away from the regulator easily enough but there was no way I could work it out of the door. The book suggested removing the door check "if necessary" which I did, and I still could not get the motor out. I found that with the motor removed from the regulator, I could turn the gears and lower the window. So I did that, and removed the regulator arm from the bracket on the window, and then removed the regulator. It looks pretty clean and the gears turn easily. Once the regulator was out of the way I had plenty of room to slide the motor out of the door. So despite the book's claims, I found it impossible to remove the motor alone without removing the regulator. With the motor out, I again applied 12V from my battery charger and it buzzed but did not turn. I slipped the black plastic cover off of the motor frame and discovered the cause: the rotor was rusted and seized. I tried to turn it manually and without much effort it broke free. I cleaned up the rusted areas on the rotor with some emery cloth and blew out the dust with compressed air. 12V again, and it's turning. I sprayed some Lubriplate chain and cable lube on the lower bearing and the RPMs picked up and it's turning smoothly. I'm not sure how to seal up the motor so its watertight when I put it back. I thought about using some RTV around the top of the cover, but that could be a pain if I ever need to open it up again. Maybe some heavy grease? Allan -- 1983 300D 1979 300SD _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
