Jill's been having persistent starting troubles on the Chicken Wagon,
but all the GP's are (now) good.  It cranks just fine, but won't
start.  Intermittently, according to her.  To me it sounds like the
GP's just aren't doing their job well.  Today I had a chance to dig
into it a little bit.  I started by cleaning the relay connections and
putting Caig Deoxit on them.  I pulled the big fuse and it was good,
but I still cleaned it off with a little wire brush and put it back
together with Deoxit.  I pulled the relay and took it to the bench,
but it seemed to behave well there.  (Interestingly, if the big fuse
is not there the relay will buzz loudly after it times out, I wonder
if that is deliberate?  I'll look into that further later, it may be
one of the system's self-diagnostic traits.)  Back on the car I
checked the GP current, it started out at a peak of 130A and dropped
down to about 50A steady-state.  The GP's, however, were only getting
at most 10V on them.  I measured 0.2V drop on ground side of battery
to the engine block, which was good.  Between the battery positive
post to the relay power post I measured a 2V drop while the GP's were
on, that's terrible!  She had to go so I didn't get to dig into it
further, but I imagine that either the feed end of the power wire to
the relay is corroded or loose, or else the wire itself has been
damaged somehow.  I checked the ETM and found that C105 is where this
wire supposedly originates, and that this is the three-terminal power
block right next to the battery.  I'd already loosened and tightened
its three screws, and sprayed Deoxit on them, as part of what I'd
first done, but nothing more.  Next time.

The car started beautifully, of course, but I'd had the block heater
on while I was working on it, and of course the glow plugs had gotten
run a fair bit while sleuthing.  (The battery charger was on it all
the time, to replenish the losses.)  And it was parked inside.  I
_expected_ no trouble this time.

-- Jim



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