So this morning I thought I'd take the 190D to work for its first shake out
run. It started fine at 25F but as soon as I pulled out I knew something was
up, the engine wouldn't rev above about 2000 rpm (working tach, yay!) while the
clutch was engaged and the car could barely move itself in 2nd gear. I didn't
have any time to mess with it so I parked it again and took Hammie to work.
On the way to work I got thinking that maybe the car had sat for awhile and
still had some summer fuel in it. It had run good when I picked it up but it
was in the 30s that day. So on my way home I stopped and bought a bottle of
Diesel Kleen, my favorite diesel additive. 1 bottle is supposed to treat 50
gallons, the gauge in the car reads 1/4, I figure thats maybe 5 gallons. I put
in the whole bottle, went inside to drop off my bag and change into some
working clothes. Then I drove the car up and down the driveway of my apartment
complex. We live on a pretty good hill and the first time up it was 1st gear
all the way with it bucking and spitting at 2k. Downhill things were of course
better but I kept it in 1st to keep the revs up. I let it idle a minute at the
bottom and then repeated. After a couple trips I could get up to 3k although
there was noticable hesitation.
At that point we headed for the open road. Stopped to pump up the front
tires, I'd inflated the rears in Jersey before hauling the car back but not the
fronts since they were on the dolly.
Out on the road things steadily improved although I think it needs a fuel
filter (already on its way, I put a nearly $100 order in to Rusty today). The
suspension is much tighter than the 240D but does seem to have an interesting
wander in it.
I took about a 7 mile loop around before heading home for dinner. The biggest
thing I noticed is that the temp gauge never moved through the whole ride. I
expect that means its disconnected, even if the thermostat we stuck open I'd
expect the needed to move eventually. I had reasonably good cabin heat too.
-Curt
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Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 19:33:25 -0600
From: Hans Neureiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] transmission rebuilding
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Don't think it is as easy as Rich opens, but it's not rocket science
neither.
More like Marshall hints: plenty of experience past down.
I am not experienced and knowledgeable enough to tell which 'HARD' part is
bad, marginal or good on an automatic.
I repaired, rebuilt and screwed up a many manuals, cars and bikes, and
learned a lot from mostly failures.
I would not attempt to waste $ 500 in R & R + $ 300 in 'soft' parts, spend
days not knowing what I'm doing and expecting a 'NEW' transmission.
I had a long conversation with one of the people at JAGGI. Not a salesman,
you mind. His description of a typical rebuild was that all 'hard' wear
items, such as bearings, plates, bands, clutches, gears and carriers,
solenoids and actuators are being categorically replaced. Basically only
the case, main shafts, governor housing, valve body and pan remain + the
original serial number.
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
On 12/6/05, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I would add that MB transmissions rarely fail before 250,000 miles if
> maintained, so you have wear on the gear train and clutch drums much
> more so that in a GM, which usually bites the dust at around 100,000.
>
> The result is that you must check ALL the parts, not just slap in a new
> set of frictions and seals. That will fix a GM or Ford right up, but
> the MB trannies normally have things like worn planetary thrust washers
> that MUST be replaced or the tranny will be noisy and or not work
> right. Typically, if I remember correctly, at least one of the drums
> and all three bands must be replaced, the gear sets usually need
> rebuilding, and the pumps often require replacement due to wear.
>
> Peter
>
>
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