Starved the #2 main and #2 crankpin of oil, scored the crank, and it broke on the highway doing 60, trashed the engine.

Peter


On Mar 16, 2012, at 2:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

So, what happened to your brother's 300D? RTV sealant got sucked in and plugged an oil passage???

Randy

On 15/03/2012 6:16 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
At least it was just the turbo, and not the #2 main oil passage like it was on my brother's 75 300D.

Peter

On Mar 15, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Once I got the turbo loose, there was no way it was coming out on top or from underneath. So you have to take the football (trap oxidizer) elimination pipe and the EGR out anyway. It would have been a lot easier to do that in the first place.

Oil leak found: the oil supply pipe was loose on the turbo. Could spin the 6mm allen wrench stem with my fingers. Not even finger tight. the upper drain fitting was also loose. the bottom drain fitting to the block was snug, but not tight.

May have been a used or rebuilt turbo. I found evidence such as way too long bolts in the mounting. I found a partial cause of death. the oil supply was maybe 2/3 obstructed with red RTV crap. A sure sign someone was in there buggering things up (english technical term for Fred)

Sure is strange that there are no pdfs for this job on the cd or online. It is not uncommon.

1987 300SDL


Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly. You will probably need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well. Not a big deal.

The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with strap clamps, easy to manage.

I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the turbo off? My guess is not. I can't imagine the drain getting plugged when M1 is in the engine.

I am inclined to order a turbo cartridge and just change it. If the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a shelf.

Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the turbo?

Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

The ********* forum had a post where someone said taking off the cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil leaking into the turbo. Sounds fishy to me on a 603.

Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have all parts in hand. If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.

Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose? new steel line?)
Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently. I need to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip. No trip is on the horizon until November.

1987 300SDL is the subject.

Dieselhead wrote:
From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is that right?

Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of seal failure?


...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/ compressor housings.

I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth "seals" would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.



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