thank you.  Working on this thing brings out a level of eloquent frustration.

clay

On Apr 4, 2012, at 6:34 PM, OK Don wrote:

> I don't have a clue about how to get the seat out - never did it on the
> SLC, but I did enjoy your writing almost as much as John Cleese's!
> 
> On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 7:46 PM, clay monroe <redgh...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>> How do the seats come out?
>> 
>> Still sorting the car out.  May be something I spend the next year doing.
>> 
>> Today's adventure involved the hood release not doing its job.  Seems the
>> cable has stretched and no longer has enough yank left to fully retract the
>> latch.  Took it to my indy and in five minutes they got the thing open, and
>> showed me how to fix.  Went home and did that.  This was helpful because....
>> 
>> I needed to change the oil, add washer fluid and put fresh ATF and filter
>> in the power steering pump.  I got all that done.
>> 
>> Oil change was sort of a breeze.  Sucker removed about three gallons of
>> really nasty black goop that was worse than I ever got out of Gump, and she
>> was diesel.  While evac was proceeding, I pop the top on PS pump and used a
>> bulb syringe to remove the thick orange slime from the housing.   Get all
>> the way to the bottom and can not find the filter.  Well that sucks, but I
>> have a new one from Rusty so in it goes, fresh ATF and clean the housing
>> and button it up.
>> 
>> Oil Goop is done, hose burbling away, so I head under the car and undo the
>> filter housing.  No gusher of warm oil down the sleeve, as would have been
>> my fate with Gump.  Dump the housing in the drain tub of used oil and swab
>> up the oil mess around the upper sealing surface while the filter and
>> housing empty.  Filter does not want to come out.  It was installed upside
>> down.  Great!  Yank it out and begin taking the tub apart to clean it for
>> new filter and seals.
>> 
>> The thing looks like it was not swabbed in ages.  Thick black slime
>> tenasiously holding onto the bottom.  Empty a whole can of brake cleaner to
>> get it all out.  Have to use a razor to wedge the old copper washer off the
>> center post it is so welded on.  Get it all back the way it should be and
>> button that up.  Fill with two gallons of Rotella, because it was on sale
>> way cheap and I only need it to flow for a few hundred miles.  Start the
>> engine and wait for pressure to pop back up.  Three bars and holds for a
>> few minutes just fine.  Get out and look for leaks.  All good!  Shut it off.
>> 
>> Now the day has progressed to the point there is decreased chance of rain
>> and temp is rising.  Looking good to get the POR on things.  Since I will
>> be driving this weekend and next, but the seat cushions have arrived, I am
>> going to take out the passenger side seat and derust the floor boards.
>> 
>> I find the four bolts holding the seat track on, but can not get the dang
>> thing to come out or release.  All it wants to do is rock back and forth on
>> a hidden pivot point.  I am suspecting the seat belt is involved in some
>> nefarious manner.  BFH and flat head to the rescue to try to maybe unstick
>> the thing, since it probably has thirty years of sugar slop holding it onto
>> the drive shaft tunnel.  That just makes it looser and more wiggly.  Still
>> clueless as to how it comes out.
>> 
>> Pull up the front footwell pad, using putty knife to pry its death grip on
>> the floor.  This thing is sopping wet.  Well, I guess I have to hunt down
>> the leak.  Another day.  Got the thing out and went to work with the wire
>> wheel on the rust.  What was initially no rust through turned into  16
>> areas of pock marked holes.  Poop!  Well, snag some fiberglass weave and
>> start cutting patches.  Go to town with the marine clean, then the surface
>> prep.  Rinse up and toss towels in to soak up the wet in hopes of getting
>> it dry enough to POR this afternoon.  Grab one of the desiccant bag things
>> to help it along.
>> 
>> While the sun is out and a nice cool breeze is helping evaporation, I try
>> to wrestle the dang seat out so I can get the rear pad up and out.  No joy.
>> Going to start kicking the tar out of the seat but for some reason
>> everybody in the voting district seems to want to use my road to drive
>> down.  Not able to keep the door open long enough to go line backer on the
>> seat and I can not get the sopping wet pad out either.  Make a note ot ask
>> the group and find another task.
>> 
>> Which is to remove the chrome fender guard that has a dent in it and has
>> dropped the gasket.  Four screws later I am face to face with a nice rust
>> spot about the size of a quarter  where the dent is on the fender itself.
>> Dang.  Get some cleaner for the accreted filth gathered between the chrome
>> part and the actual car.  Wash it off and use 220 grit on the rust.  Poot a
>> bit of rust sealer rattle can spray to protect it for now and take a small
>> peen to the dented chrome to smooth it out.  Not great, but more flatter.
>> Put it back on.
>> 
>> Get my stack of fiberglass patches and scoop up two margarine tubs of POR.
>> One to paint the other to soak each patch.  Check for dry.  Good enough.
>> Set up a tub in the footwell and use the paint tub to add a second coat to
>> the trunk.  Then do the footwell with swipes of paint brush POR.  Black goo
>> is going all over and I am jamming it into any nook or cranny I find as
>> well as seams and holes.  It is doing a great job of flowing all over the
>> holes and rust.  Make sure it is even and fully coating, then grab a patch
>> and look for a hole.  Soak it and pop it on.  Well, that is not such a good
>> idea.  This thing is pretty unmanageable sloppy wet.  Grab a few more dry
>> patches and plop them on top of the drenched one.  They soak up a fair
>> excess and I put them on their own holes.  Decide I will just use dry patch
>> and poke them down with the brush into the POR.  Use a few dabs of wet
>> brush to keep them down and fully get them wet.  All patches used and I
>> think I hit every hole I had.  Some have overlap of patch because the dang
>> hole were everywhere.
>> 
>> Take the left over POR and the paint brush back to the trunk and see if it
>> is tacky and dry enough to do a third coat.  Get the third coat on with no
>> issue.  Still have more of the black slop and I am running out of places to
>> slather it.  Go to the rusty bits that got the last coating with left over,
>> and do them a second coat. Still a goodly amount left.  Gather up the junk
>> yard found tools that had been sitting in ponds in the trunks of cars.
>> Tool kit bits.  I had used the electrolysis to remove the rust, but even
>> coating the little things in WD-40 and light machine oil was not able to
>> keep the rust away.  I had sanded them up Sunday in case I needed them to
>> work on the car, but three days later, rust is back.  Slather them with
>> POR.  Now I have little black wrenches. They will live in the wet trunk
>> until I can find where the water is getting in.
>> 
>> Back to the seat.  HOW THE EF do these things come out.  Smack it with
>> heavy rubber mallet. Rock it back and forth, sideways.  Kick it, yell at
>> it.  Give up, hang up my shop smock and write a message to the mercedes
>> group.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> clay
>> 
>> 
>> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>> 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
>> 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
>> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________
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>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
> _______________________________________
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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