Brian,

This all falls under the "let the buyer beware" clause. You should have done
your homework on the car before purchasing it.

I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every
good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll
have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car
and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll
purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it.

My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned
it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at
least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have
been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's
still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is
depreciating and I won't complain.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant


Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port.
I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was
told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on
the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
replies.



I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with
my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing,
and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours checking
the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a
plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after
arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ),
told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't
under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was
in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no
vacuum on the port to start with.



If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
I'm not going back.



Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the
replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor
mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.



And no, it's not worth going to court over.



And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges.  Flew to
Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been
intermittently working.  Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked
head.  All 6 cylinders.  Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a
$1k concession.  I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that.



Thanks for letting me vent.



Brian Smyla







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