It often helps to leave the injector lines loose at the injector and crank
it over until they bleed diesel.  Then tighten them up and the car should
start easily.  Far better than many seconds of cranking and waiting for a
smooth idle.


On Sun, Nov 4, 2012 at 1:05 PM, Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Okay I can see how people screw this job up.
> The first two (I started at the front and went rearward) went perfectly,
> got the holder, spring, copper washer out no problem.
> Third hole when I put the holder and spring on the spring somehow gets
> between the element and the side of the hole. I discover this when I can't
> tighten the holder down.
>
> Lesson #1: put the spring on top of the element, put the DV holder on top
> of that.
>
> I gently removed the spring while holding the element in place. Still
> managed to pull the little whatever it is off the top of the element. Got
> that back in place in the original orientation. Fortunately theres writing
> on there, fortunately I noted which way the writing went first.
>
> Fourth hole as I remove the holder I accidentally tip it because I'm
> trying to remove holder and socket at the same time, this causes the
> element to rise in the bore.
>
> Lesson #2: remove socket from DV holder, remove DV holder from bore
> straight up. This would be easier if the intake manifold weren't in the way.
>
> Immediately upon realizing whats happening I stop and reverse course. The
> element falls back into place looking satisfyingly normal.
>
> I'd read that sometimes it was hard to get the car to start after this job
> because the injection lines are all empty so I put the battery charger on
> the battery to give a good float charge before I started. That said I
> cranked with my foot to the floor for maybe 5 seconds before it started, it
> stumbled a bit at first but then settled down. Sounded weird as I had the
> airbox off. I wonder if the fact that all the bores were full of diesel and
> I left them full (which made a drippy mess in the driveway until I noticed
> and slid a pan under) helped.
>
> So anyway this project was wonderfully devoid of any excitement. Two of
> the o-rings were really shredded, the other two had triangular cross
> sections so clearly they all needed replacing. I would posit that the
> engine is slightly quieter now but we're talking about an OM601 with less
> than 200,000 miles on it, its pretty quiet to begin with...
>
> -Curt
>
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