Probably because things like the motor in the dryer run on 120V and only
the heating elements run on 240V.
So, in the HWT there are no 120V items as someone previously noted and
the white neutral is not needed.
I used to repair rental HWT for Ontario Hydro out at the lake back in
the early 1970's.
The closest Hydro office was 50 miles away and so they wanted someone
local to do the repairs. Generally faster and cheaper than sending a
union member service fellow out by truck.
I used a meter similar to the one that one of you folks asked about a
day ot so back - a clamp on Amprobe Meter.
A 3000W element which was the standard upper element back then would
draw about 12.5 Amps accross each side at 240V if I recall.
Most were 40 gallon tanks. A 60 gallon tank would generally have a 4500W
upper element but there were not many of the big tanks installed in
cottages.
If I found that the 2 sides were not equal, then it was cause to change
the element.
Some of the elemnts were immersion and some were strap elements that
wrapped around the tank and clamped on.
The strap elements were generally easier to change because I did not
have to drain the tank of water.
The problem with draining was that it took time and I was not paid
hourly. It was a flat rate arrangement.
The lower element was then usually only 1500W in the 40 gallon tanks.
The only bad thing about the strap elements was that they would
sometimes weld themselves to the tank when they burned out.
That could make for difficult removal.
There is generally a circuit breaker type doodad in there along with the
top thermostat. A red push button reset in my day.
That would often need to be reset after a thunderstorm. I got $10 for a
basic button reset back in about 1973.
Sometimes after a storm I would spend my evening going from one cottage
to another and make $60 to $100 in the evening after supper.
To me, that was pretty good money back then.
Randy
On 24/05/2013 10:53 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:
In the electrical/generator business when we are pulling multiple 4/0
conductors (or larger) cable identification is done with colored 3M electrical
tape in multiple locations. Since tape can come off during a pull, especially
a long one with a lot of wire lube, you mark the conductors as best you can to
prevent having to ring them out when the pull is done.
As for the lack of use of the neutral, most 240VAC appliances, such as dryers
and water heaters, have neutral bars for landing the neutral in the appliance.
It may or may not be bonded to ground depending on local and state codes.
Dan
On May 24, 2013, at 11:00 AM, Craig wrote:
On Fri, 24 May 2013 10:27:23 -0400 Mitch Haley <m...@voyager.net> wrote:
I'm installing my electric heater (switching from natural draft propane
water heater) with a disconnect box and 10/2 wire. I suppose I should
do something to tint the end of the white wire red. Wish I had some red
heat shrink handy.
A small roll of red tape from your hardware store will do the job nicely.
That's what electricians use, along with rolls of white and green tape,
when they are running large gauge wire that is available only in black.
Craig
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