It really is the bane of the 124 series.  Even my '87 suffers from it.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff <d...@penoff.com> wrote:

>Gotta love those quick and easy fixes....
>
>I thought only the W140 chassis had the self-destructing wiring
>harnesses?  And boy, I understand what people mean about these, too. 
>When I rebuilt my lower engine harness nearly all of the insulation was
>gone on all of the smaller wires.  What little was left literally fell
>off when I handled the harness.
>
>I can't imagine what they were thinking when they spec'ed out the
>materials for these harnesses.
>
>Dan
>
>
>On Jun 2, 2013, at 5:45 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>
>> A few days ago the dashboard illumination on my car quit working.  I
>looked
>> in the fuse box, saw that a fuse was out (#3, I think it was), and
>replaced
>> it, but it blew again as soon as I turned on the headlights again.
>> 
>> I'm lazy and cheap enough that I would be willing to live without a
>lit-up
>> speedometer if fixing it was difficult or expensive, but I noticed
>that,
>> according to the handy reference card in the lid of the fuse box, the
>right
>> taillight and license plate lights are on the same circuit.  Bad idea
>to go
>> driving around for too long without either of those working.  I have
>a
>> printed copy of the 124 chassis electrical troubleshooting manual
>with all
>> the nice schematics, so I got that out along with a good voltmeter
>and
>> prepared to start tracing the circuits looking for shorts to ground
>that
>> shouldn't be there.  First, though, I had a hunch to look in the
>> trunk---I've had a lot of trouble with the wires in the door jambs
>that
>> connect to the power seat switches, and maybe there was something
>like that
>> in the trunk hinge.
>> 
>> Sure enough, there's a bundle of wires back in the left side of the
>trunk
>> in the 124 sedan that connect the body to the trunklid, and the
>bundle was
>> suspiciously kinked near the hinge.  I cut and loosened the woven
>covering
>> on either side of the kink.  There's only four wires inside--one for
>the
>> light inside the trunklid, one for the license plate lights, and two
>> grounds.  On my car, the insulation on all four at the kinked place
>was dry
>> and crumbly, and had flaked off enough that grounds and hot wires
>were
>> obviously able to make contact willy-nilly.  On a couple of the
>wires, the
>> copper strands inside had also begun to break.  I taped everything up
>as a
>> temporary fix.  Doing it right will require cutting the damaged wire
>away
>> and soldering in a short jumper to allow each of the four the same
>range of
>> movement as before when the trunk lid swings up and down--I need to
>think
>> for a while how best to approach that, since I'm not excited about
>lying on
>> my back in the trunk trying to solder above my head.
>> 
>> However, my hunch was right, and I didn't need to trace any circuits.
> Once
>> the four damaged wires were insulated from each other, the dash
>lights
>> worked fine, as did the tail and license plate lights.  I love it
>when the
>> easy fix turns out to be the right one!
>> 
>> Alex
>> _______________________________________
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>
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>
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