When I painted my MB, 911 and MGB, I bought a lot of stuff from these
guys www.autobodytoolmart.com. I highly recommend the 3M stuff. It is
all excellent. It's also a good idea to create a relationship with a
local shop that sells paint lke PPG to the public/hobbyist -- they
know all the tricks and the best products.
For instructions on color sanding / Buffing I suggest a google search
for color sanding and there will be all kinds of videos showing
different techniques.
I'm a big fan of Griots Garage and i believe their website has videos
also but IMO their stuff is pretty pricey and not better than 3M. But I
cannot resist buying their stuff sometimes. ;-)
It is better/safer to use a DA buffer as it is less possible to burn
through the paint. You might consider putting masking tape on edges as
they usually have the thinnest paint and will burn thru easily.
I also have a 6" buffer and if using foam pads I learned how to buff and
not burn thru - but you are much more likely to burn thru with a
standard flat sander/buffer. But large flat areas you will probably be
OK...
Good luck -
LarryT
78 240D
91 300D
On 9/16/2013 2:00 AM, clay wrote:
Look into the Griots stuff.
HF has a workable 6" RA sander/buffer that I just picked up. I used the 25%
off coupon. Original price was $60. Pick up the velcro pads at HF too. A little
less expensive than Griot, but probably the same things.
The SE had a kacked up hood. Pine sap had eaten the clear away and into the
color. The hood looked like a giant had sneezed on it and the boogers cooked
on. Felt like it too. I used a razor to shave the crap off, just to be able
to get a sort of smooth surface to start with. That was not good enough.
Chemicals like isopropyl or other mild solvents did not reduce the cratering
either. Then I used the targeted nuclear option. I got wet/dry sandpaper. I
worked up from 1500 to 5000 grit and turned the hood into an opaque disaster.
That done, I washed it up and the wet made it look pretty good. So, I got out
the Griot #1 polish and put that on it with the RA. Then worked up to #3
polish, followed by the sealant. It went from heavy damage to very shiny black
paint. The pitting is still noticeable, but that is just white spots from
paint damage. The surface is smooth as an infants posterior. The owner will
eventually have to do a repaint, but for now, the car looks good enough.
clay
2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl - Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
On Sep 15, 2013, at 1:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
The hood on my 92 300SD is oxidized bad, it has been repainted at some point and
oxidized when the rest of the car has not. I have been meaning to buff it out for a
long time but have never got around to it. Today I washed the car and messed with
buffing it. I just used what I had on hand and it did not work all that well. I
had some turtle wax polishing compound in a quirt bottle and my 9" random
orbital buffer. I buffed on it quite a while and ended up really scrubbing on it by
hand in one corner and could tell it was starting to shine up but was going to take
many hours and lots of manual scrubbing to get it off. So I gave up till I could get
some proper equipment, probably a Harbor Freight regular buffer and something other
that Turtle wax. Poos you use a buffer? I do NOT want to do it by hand, I am way
too lazy and hate detailing cars. You use 3m products, right? What do you recommend
to cut down really bad oxidation, followed with a nice wax that will last a long time
.
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