On a 123, you open the lid to the compartment,  unscrew the bottom of it, pull 
it out (bottom of compartment, not whole  shelf) and it's right there - unhook 
wires, unscrew w/ channel locks  and there ya go.
  
  Chris

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  ok, does that just lift out or 
do you have to pull the whole shelf?

Jim Cathey wrote:

>>OK, somebody remind me how you get at the fuel sender on a 126?  Its
>>been so long I can remember.
> 
> 
> Under storage compartment in hat rack on driver's side.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
                
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Subject: [MBZ] Silicone Caulk--what you want instead.
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What you want is Vulkem 116 polyurathane caulk. Great stuff, less 
than $4/tube at home depot. comes in all manner of colors. Won't 
react with metals, lasts forever. Its what Airstream seals their 
aluminum seams with at the factory, and what airstream restorers 
(once had one) use exclusively.
Dan

>  is) that using silicon is not a good idea to seal vehicles as it
>  somehow
>  contributes to rust. Don't know if that would apply to windshields

Silicone (note 'e') RTV is not good to put in contact with
metal because it is acidic.  For the rubber-to-glass interface
it's fine, but for the rubber-to-metal side of the seal it
could be problematic.  I think there are some non-acidic
RTV's out there.  If so they'd be different.

-- Jim
-- 
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k

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