How flat is the battery in it? How long did you leave the booster cables hooked
up before you tried to start the car?
When I'm boosting my 240D I leave the cables connected for at least 5
minutes. If the battery is down enough that I need to boost it its going to
take some time to get back up to where it'll start the car.
I have very good, heavy booster cables by the way, cheap ones will get really
hot when you're slamming power through them to a flat battery. You can really
heat 'em up boosting a 6v tractor off a 12v pickup, not too bad if you're quick
but my Great uncle had some cheapie cables for awhile and ended up burning the
end off one.
You can't start the car purely off the booster cables, your cables don't make
a good enough connection, you need to let the battery in the car pick up some
charge before you try to start.
-Curt
'83 240D "Hammie" 251kmi
'85 190D "Dory" 233kmi
Date: 16 Jan 2006 20:25:21 -0000
From: "Alan Duff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] 84 300SD Starter Question
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I'm looking at a 1984 300SD with 231k miles. In attempting to start it
using booster cables, with a hot jump battery, the starter spings very
slowly. Never gets fast enough to start and he jumper cables get hot to
the touch. Is this a bad starter or some other problem in the
electrical
system?
Alan Duff
Knoxville, TN
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Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 17:59:09 -0600
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Subject: [MBZ] euro 5.0 throttle position sensor and other questions
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OK, slowing working out the little bugs with the euro 5.0 in the US 380.
I figured out this thing has a throttle position sensor which is
located under the air meter deal, fuel distributor etc right on the side
of the throttle body. The euro engine has a wire with a flat 2 lead
connector, the US car and another US car I have here has a round 3 lead
connector for the sensor. I have a high idle of 900-1K rpm and am
assuming this is probably the cause. I also seem to have a very slight
surge when maintaining the same speed going down the road which also
leads to this. Anyways, Im assuming Im going to have to swap the
sensors. Any way of doing this short of removing the whole injection
system?
Thinking about taking the whole thing off anyways and putting the US
version back on. On the US version there is a wire that is supposed to
hook up to some sort of valve just to the left of the fuel dist. There
is a small fuel line that comes out of the fuel dist that goes to this
valve with the electrical connection, then if goes back out of this
valve and around to another valve on the back of the fuel dist that has
a vacuum connection on it. From there I think it goes to the warm up
regulator but cant remember off hand. The euro motor does not have this
setup with that valve and therefor the wire is not hooked to anything
for it. Anybody know what this is for and what it causes when not
hooked up? Think I should put the US stuff on the euro motor or just
swap the throttle sensor and leave it at that? With the US injection
parts on the euro motor, will it decrease the power? Im sure nobody
will know much about this since this is sort of new territory but
thought I would ask.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net
