Andrew, Clunking when I manipulate the hub, with the wheel off, from the cv joint closest to the wheel. I can see the little bit of play before the shaft starts to move. Knock\clunk when making left turns at 20+ mph also.
It started about 4 days ago at 35+mph left turn corners. Lightly and now more loudly. Easy to diagnose with the rear end up on jackstands and the wheels off the car. Only HAVE to do the passenger side, but I am doing both to avoid the drivers side failing 2 weeks after I finish the passenger. Murphy's law prevention.. Hahaha! Kyle On Jan 14, 2017 1:17 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: What were the symptoms again? Did you notice them on the way down to FL or subsequently? Whenever I had an axle problem there was a conspicuous knocking noise at highway speeds on the straightaway. Unmistakable. On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 10:57 PM, fmiser via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote: > Kyle wrote: >> > > Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. >> I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so... >> > > Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure. > Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me > less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the > car back on the ground. Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too > many) times. And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft > immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased. > > Here's my procedure > > * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the > differential oil. It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the > fill plug can be opened before you drain. The higher the > back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out, > so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and > drain plugs. > > * While the oil is draining: > > - take off the wheel(s) > > - take off the brake caliper. Yes, it really does need to > come off. I have tried many tricks to avoid it and > always had to take it off. Don't let the caliper hang > by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more > than necessary. > > - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel > hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose > in the hub. I have never used a tool like the manual > shows. Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out, > but it's never been more than just a bit stiff. > > * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car > to working height. I like to have the lower shock mount > about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor. I get it this > high just to make it easier for me to work under there - > none of the parts install/removal process need the car that > high. > > * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this > called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts > that hold the differential mount to the frame. > > * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential > a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the > top bolts much easier. This part is especially tricky on a > wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control > valve conspire to get in the way. Lowering the > differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging". > The shape of the lip on the differential housing means > little or no oil will run out when the differential cover > is removed. > > * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft. I have a piece > of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees. The bent > end fits into the hole in the retainer clip. I grip the > other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove > the retainer clip. > > * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as > high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car > body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position. > > * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it > past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end > is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the > differential. > > Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. > * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary, > on the replacement axle shaft. I lightly grease the axle > shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide > together more easily. > > * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the > differential. > > * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub. > > * With the differential jack lower the differential. > > * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential. > Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it. > > * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to > spec. > > * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the > differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to > spec. > > * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec. > > * Put the brake caliper back on. > > * Put the wheel on. > > * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential. > > * Remove the differential jack. > > * Lower the car to the ground. > > Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are: > clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look > for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc. > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
