Speaking of measuring things did you ever get that mileage spreadsheet to work?
I've got another bunch of mileage I need to put in mine...
-Curt
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 20:20:36 -0600
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ok, all this talk about M1 has me wondering
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Another raised hand - I also use Larry's service. I've started having
the oil analyzed in all our cars - and extending the drain interval.
The last test on the 300SDL with a little over 10K on the oil returned
a soot level of 0.6%. At that rate it seems like the oil could stay in
there forever, but I'll test again at 15k. The other cars have only
been tested once, so I'm still gathering data.
You do have to factor in that I'm almost as adicted to measuring
thangs as I am to Diesel fuel ---
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM617 valve stem seals
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Can I check the turbo for free spin by just removing the intake tube?
Should I check compression some evening soon?
~Smoke on acceleration is often a bad turbo -- I know someone who got a
~W140 for next to nothing (less than $8000 a year or so ago) because it
~blew so much blue smoke -- not bent rods in that case, but a blow turbo
~dumping oil in the exhaust.
~
~Valve guide seals won't fix leaking guides, anyway, at least not for
~long -- they wear out very fast from the loose valve. The oil
~consumption comes from exhaust blowby atomizing the oil on the exhaust
~valve, not from oil getting sucked in, although quite a bit does leak
~down into the combustion chambers on shutdown (blue smoke on start --
~actually diagnostic for worn valve guides if always accompanied by some
~blue smoke after extended idle at stop light).
~
~I would check the turbo for easy free spin (cold, engine off, of
~course) -- any roughness in rotation or axial play, it's toast -- and
~valve guides for excessive clearance. The latter is a PITA -- you have
~to locate a piston near top dead center (so the valve won't drop into
~the engine), then remove the rocker and valve nuts. Lower the valve a
~bit to get it off the seat (which is why the piston can't be at TDC --
~only 0.050" clearance) and wobble it side to side. If it moves, the
~guides are shot. I'd check #1 cause it's easiest, if it's worn the
~rest are, and it's time for a valve job.
~
~If you are approaching 250,000 miles, it's time anyway.
~
~Peter
~
~
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi)
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
