Strong work. 

--R
Sent from iPhone

> On Aug 23, 2017, at 9:34 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
> 
> First, buy a Curt 56146 trailer light converter, it has its own power supply 
> and does not draw power from the taillight housings, just samples taillight 
> voltages to tell it what to do. This avoids trouble with the bulb warning 
> light in the dash. Also, I checked the impedence on the power input, with the 
> turn signals, brake lights and taillights off, it was 26kOhms, so there's no 
> worry about battery drain when you aren't using the car (the rear power 
> outlet is always hot).
> 
> Buy a Curt 13018 hitch (3500lb), Draw-Tite 75087 (5000lb) or Reese 44720 
> (8000lb). I hoped the Curt would not require cutting away part of the plastic 
> bumper cover, but I still had to notch it to clear the gusset on the back of 
> the hitch. (less cutting than the Draw-Tite in the video, which sits higher 
> and requires you to cut a notch wide enough for the 2" receiver.)
> 
> Download these two videos:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUtq8gvv8jU
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTj1GjgeEMY
> 
> I don't follow the videos exactly. When they take the bumper off, and then 
> take the flat panel antenna off the bumper, I just fold the back seat and 
> stick the bumper in the back with the right end hanging out to keep from 
> pulling the wire.
> 
> I made several changes to the wiring video.
> They stuck the box in the left taillight recess, then had to extend the wire 
> to the right taillight. I stuck the box under the bumper cover, and the green 
> wire was then long enough to reach the right taillight.
> 
> They used a self-drilling-tapping sheet metal screw to punch a hole in the 
> body and secure the ground wire. I fished the white ground wire through the 
> bumper plastic and secured it with the rightmost bumper plastic holding screw.
> Advantage, no holes drilled in my car.
> 
> They ran a long wire and an inline fuse holder to the battery, running the 
> hot wire under the body along the frame. I ran a 5' wire through the bumper 
> to the right taillight housing, wiggled it through the rubber grommet for the 
> taillight wiring (so the body is still waterproof behind the taillight), and 
> used the same sort of blue wiring tap as was used at the taillights to tap 
> into the red wire at the rear power outlet/lighter socket.
> To get access to the wire, I just had to take off the cargo net hook nearest 
> the outlet, peel back the rubber tailgate gasket, and pull the interior panel 
> away from the body until I could get my hand in there and unplug (no locking 
> clip, just unplug it) the wiring from the outlet. The wire is long enough to 
> pull out the CD changer access door for easy tapping. Now the trailer light 
> controller has a 20A fused power source, and there aren't any stray wires 
> under the body.
> 
> My one mistake: While I was wishing they hadn't set the wire lengths to force 
> you to put the unit by the left taillight (because my chosen power supply was 
> by the right taillight) I didn't think of the solution until just now as I 
> was writing this up. Instead of driving to town for a spool of 14ga stranded 
> wire to extend the power input lead, I could have put the unit under the 
> right end of the bumper, connected the tail and stoplight wires on the right 
> side, shortened the green turn signal wire, and used the excess green wire to 
> extend the yellow left turn signal wire over to the left taillight housing. 
> That keeps the power wire short, and allows you to do the entire install with 
> the wires that Curt furnished.
> 
> Pictures: The first one shows where I attached the converter box with the 
> supplied double sided tape. You can also see that the white wire is taped to 
> a 3" zip tie, I used that to fish the green wire over to the right side and 
> to fish the white ground wire into the bumper cover as I reattached the 
> bumper cover. The second photo shows how I ran the power wire parallel to the 
> existing wiring harness and slipped it into the body via the existing rubber 
> seal.
> 
> Mitch.
> <Curt adapter location.jpg>
> <running power lead into cabin.jpg>
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