Yes, one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/NulinkTM-Deluxe-Desoldering-Remover-Plastic/dp/B00U1SFNYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508622207&sr=8-1&keywords=soldapult

or some of this:
https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-SW02-10-No-Clean-Solder/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1508622306&sr=1-4&keywords=solder+wick+braid

I've never used the braid, only the sucker.

On Sat, Oct 21, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Well ok I guess I will try that next. Do I need one of those sucker things?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 21, 2017, at 4:00 PM, Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > On Sat, 21 Oct 2017 15:57:30 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> > <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I have replaced the caps and hit all the points with the iron 3 times
> >> now and it will work then cut out. Usually when it quits it won’t
> >> accelerate or anything. Last time I drove the car it accelerates but
> >> does not hold. I guess I will pull it back out and do it again. What am
> >> I missing?
> >
> > You need to suck all of the solder off each joint and then resolder each
> > joint with new solder WITH flux.
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> > _______________________________________
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-- 
OK Don

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WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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