I have one of their units in my 95 e300. It’s maybe 2 years old. It started 
acting up to where now it most often does not work. In fact it will drop out, 
then later on will suddenly kick in. You may have set it at 70 earlier, and are 
driving in a 45, and all the sudden it kicks in and tries to get back to 70.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2017, at 10:00 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> Send it to Programa for a rebuild/exchange.  They did mine 10 years ago and
> it's never missed a beat.  Well worth the $149 charge at the time.
> 
> On Sun, Oct 22, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>>> 
>>> I have replaced the caps and hit all the points with the iron 3 times now
>>> and it will work then cut out.
>> 
>> 
>> The original problem is cold solder joints.  The solder crystallizes with
>> age and/or vibration and no longer makes good contact, and things stop
>> working.  The point of resoldering is to re-make good contact.  BUT!!! If
>> the metal is oxidized and nasty it won't always help.  I do a lot of
>> scraping with the soldering iron tip in order to get the new solder to
>> 'wet' the joint properly, so that you _do_ make good contact.  Just hitting
>> it with heat will not do anything useful.  Just adding new solder will not
>> always do anything useful.  You have to watch carefully as you go, and when
>> you see a joint not reacting properly you have to up your game right there.
>> It's a bit of an art.  I often start by wire-brushing the whole board,
>> using a fine brush.  Take off a layer of crud right from the start.
>> 
>> -- Jim
>> _______________________________________
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> _______________________________________
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