In a message dated 3/20/2006 12:50:55 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I'm seeing a feeling of being pushed back in the seat - smoothly and
progressively as rpm's build between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Then it's a
steady
acceleration. But at times I don't notice the push (for lack of a better
term) as the turbo spools up and the scenery starts to go by more
quickly.
That's my question - it seems to be more noticable at some times while
other
times, it just gradually adds speed - still quickly, but not with the
feeling of being pressed into the seat.
When I learned I didn't have an ALDA in my W123 240D, I ignored the posts
when it was being discussed. I plan to read the manual to see how it
works
and what adjustments are suggested but if the list would provide their
experiences with ALDA and what they did / how they did it -- I'd really
appreciate it as the workshop manual is not always clear.
Larry,
The ALDA changes the injected fuel quantity as atmospheric pressure and/or
boost pressure varies. Below is what I wrote in reply to previous
inquiries.
I think it is important enough to repeat the main theme here. I, and
others
on this list, believe that the injection pump calibration shifts towards
leaner as the pump ages. To correct this you can spend big bucks, pull
the
inector pump and send it to a Bosch shop for recalibrating. OR... you
can change
the setting on the ALDA to compensate. This is waaaay cheaper:
I firmly believe that as the fuel injection pump ages, the calibration
goes towards the lean side, due to softening of springs and wear of
various levers and fulcrums. This results in weak off-the-line
performance, especially when starting out with a cold engine.
Jerking the FI pump and having it recalibrated could fix this problem
but it's expensive. What I believe WILL give you a kick in the pants
is adding to that shim between the ALDA/compensater, and the FI pump.
That will give you more fuel off-idle, before the boost comes in, and
the car will really step out. Especially watch the improvement when
starting out cold.
The shim measurements are 0.705" OD, and 0.560 ID. You should be able
to duplicate the shim, in various thickness, with a Dremel and some
flat washers.
You need a 25mm wrench (1 inch works) to turn the nut on the FI pump
clockwise while holding the ALDA with a strap wrench, big pliers, or ?
Once the nut breaks loose it is easy to turn and release the ALDA.
Watch for shims in the base of the ALDA and/or the top of the FI pump.
Use a
thin screwdriver to probe for the shims as they are virtually
invisible. I
would return all existing shims or their equal, plust .040 to .060
additional shims, to compensate for calibration shift in the FI pumps
due to age.
There is no way of knowing how much each individual car will need-what
we are looking for is a much improved jump off idle, before the boost
comes in, and especially when the engine is cold. All this without
excess smoke at WOT on a sunny day, and no big increase in fuel
consumption
Typically, those that break the seal on the turbo ALDAs to get to the
adjusting screw get about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns CCW before they hit the
thread limit--at .025" per revolution, that would be about like a
.040" shim. I have not heard of anyone coming back CW off the max,
but I have heard of
people twisting off the screw, trying to get "more"! Hence the
reason for
shims-the screws can be used for fine tuning, if needed.
Regards,
Jim Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 141 K miles
_______________________________________
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
