What he said! My experience, almost exactly. On 3/29/06, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I never used the "official " wrenches. I have never even seen them, other > than in pictures. I have always used just plain open end (combination) > 14mm wrenches. You need one that is thin. Lately I have been using a > cheap combination wrench that has been ground to make the jaws thinner, for > the bottom nut. I have never needed a big wrench. YOu need to watch the > spring cap (where the big wrench goes) to be sure you compensate if it > turns. Most of the time, if the valve is closed as it must be to adjust, > the valve cap will not turn. There is an art to knowing where to set the > top nut so when you tighten it and the lock nut together, the gap is > right. Don't expect to get it right the first time. You may have to do > some valves many times before you gat that particular one right. when you > think you have them all right, turn the crank over and check each pair > again as they come up. (You will notice that 2 cam lobes will be pointing > more or less up at the same time, one intake and one exhaust) When you > can do this repeatedly and get the same reading, then you are ok. > > I used to have an old S wrench that was 1/2 x 9/16 open end. If worked > perfectly to fit around the cam towers and injectors to hold the lock > nut. The ground down cheapo 14 mm is its replacement. > > You also need to get the feel of how to use feeler gauges. it is right > when the proper thickness gauge can slide in the gap, but there is a > noticeable resistance. If you have to force it in, you are too tight. If > it has no resistance, the valve is too loose. There are also go-no-go > feeler gauges. These have two thicknesses on each blade. My set was from > Snears. The thick part was .002 inch thicker than the thin part. I will > often work with two blades out, one at the setting I want, and the other > .001" thicker. I want the first to go and the second not to go in. It > isn't necessary, but it is a way to check your work as you go. I believe > in being verdamt sure the valves are right before i put the cover back > on. I have never burned a valve from misadjustment in 30+ years. > > Tchüß! > > Loren > (Adjusting valves since 1969. Adjusting MB Diesel valves since 1972 >
-- OK Don, KD5NRO (adjusting valves since 1964, MB valves since 1969) Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
