Finally got a hammer down there to bang on it. That did the trick. Fired
right up. Of course the claw on the hammer pulled the transmission and
vacuum shutoff lines off the injection pump, so after I drove the front end
up on the leaning towers of lumber pyramid scheme in preparation for
starter removal, it wouldnt shut off...

Man the new brakes are awesome. I can absolutely recommend the dual
diaphragm r129 booster, 500e master cylinder, 500e aluminum fronts and
600sl rears. The car had late model wagon calipers and stock 87 booster on
it before, 294mm dual piston ate fronts.  These new are the biggest that
will fit under a 16" r129 wheel, with 300mm rotors. I was worried my el
cheapo stoptech cryo rotors would have some terrible stopping properties,
and the old single booster required serious leg muscles, so I wasnt sure if
I had a pad and rotor issue or a pressure issue, but it turned out to be
the latter. The car stops RIGHT NOW but still has modulation. I havent
pushed it to fade again yet, but its nice to know I can put my wife in it
and have it behave like her bmw x5d with m brakes used to - before it died
at 8000 miles. I guess it stopped better than it went also! Epidemic.

Headlight bulb is now out on the left side, and my glass is all pitted
anyway. I thought I had new hella lenses coming from Latvia but apparently
they want a bank transfer or something. Tempted by LED retrofit bulbs, but
I have no idea what the pattern is on those. Do they blind oncoming
traffic? What would Daniel Stern do...

Got 2 of the last 3 w124 sportline hydroshocks aus der faterland. Maybe
should have purchased the spare also. I wonder if sachs will rebuild them
in a pinch?

Also lubed the brake pedal so it no longer squeaks at the pin and threw in
a new brake light switch.

I agree with whoever said w123 cars just keep going. Hope same is true for
this one once it is all sorted out.

Next up: starter, then subframe bushings for everything. Does anyone know
how to tell a worn subframe bushing by looking at it? I have a v8 subframe
to swap in and the bushings all look pretty new. Prob best to swap on
general principle.

On Dec 3, 2018 7:30 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

You’re really limited on this car as to what the problem can be:

Battery (not)
Neutral safety switch (not)
Solenoid
Starter

Get a piece of wood, long ratchet extension or baseball bat and give the
starter and solenoid a good 2-3 smacks, real hard.

I’m betting the solenoid is stuck or hung up.  once this brute force
approach frees it up, order a rebuilt started from a trusted supplier.


-D



> On Dec 3, 2018, at 10:25 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks I tried it with a half inch ratchet, but no go. It has to be the
> solenoid since it doesnt even click.
>
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:41 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
>
>> I've experienced starters with "dead spots" or stuck brushes.  Try
>> whacking it a couple times with a hammer.
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Karl
>>> Wittnebel via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:30 PM
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz com <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>> Cc: Karl Wittnebel <atypical...@gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td
>>>
>>> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
>> also, and
>>> the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car into and
>> out of
>>> park and neutral while the switch is in the start position caused
>> dimming of all
>>> the dash lights, implying a short in the system and also implying that
>> the
>>> neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
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>>
> _______________________________________
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>
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>


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