Ha I haven't done anything with the top, or the car for that matter other than drive it twice (until I get the spheres replaced), so this is basically an initial issue.  It rained like hell here Fri and Saturday so I wasn't able to do anything with it until yesterday when I had a bunch of other stuff to do outside too.

I need to get a buddy over to try to get the top off, probably have to wait until the weekend now.

I am guessing the top hydraulics are inop given the o-ring repair kit in the trunk, but I have not taken off the hard top and tried to cycle the soft top, so nothing to report there.

I'll report back when I know more...

On a related matter, this girl really wants to get this car out of her garage, she had it listed for $2k, she pinged me a little while ago, I offered her $300 which is probably too much but I'll see.  If nothing else a lot of good paatz maybe to keep the SL600 going... or sell the wreck to Kleb!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1855122984563696/

--FT


On 12/17/18 10:31 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:
The top system, while complex from an engineering standpoint, is pretty easy to 
troubleshoot.  I would direct you to Klaus’s “Top Hydraulics” web site (Google 
it) where you can find some troubleshooting information as well.

Have you attempted to remove the hard top?  I ask because if you have using the 
funky wrench it’s very, very possible that a top latch microswitch is out of 
whack.  They’re easy to get this way, and when acting up will create any number 
of irritating errors in the system.

You’re not giving us enough information to go on here. We need to know what you 
have or haven’t done with the top recently.  That, and if I recall, the 
hydraulics aren’t fully functional, correct?

-D

On Dec 17, 2018, at 10:15 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I ordered a thermostat from FCP, it is a 90deg casting with the actual tstat in 
the bottom, there is the big outlet and a small one at top, hoses are long 
enough to remove easily.  So that's on the way I guess.

I have been reading some posts on benzworld on the top and my head is hurting!  A 
demonically complex system they designed there.  All for "convenience" I 
guess...  I'll go out and cycle the top switch again according to the manual, if it is 
still blinking I need to put an LED on the diagnostic plug per all the stuff I have been 
reading, or figure out if the blinks on the switch itself mean anything.  There is no 
chime, just the switch light illuminated and blinking.  I think it is actually locked, it 
does not move although it rattled a bit when I drove it, but that might just be the 
log-wagon suspension problem right now.

I shall keep the list posted on this adventure, though I am ready to sell all 
these others and just drive the 126, nice and simple (once the heat is working).

--FT


On 12/16/18 7:51 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
If the thermostat is like the one on the M119 V8, it’s part of an aluminum 
housing, not a separate part from the housing.  Also, if there’s a short 90 
degree hose that goes to the housing, get one of those.  If the original or an 
old one is on there, it won’t flex enough for you to get the t-stat fitting 
into the hose.  Even with a new, flexible hose it’s a major PITA to get 
everything put back together.

The flashing light in the top switch can mean any number of things, it may be 
accompanied by a chime.  If so, the top isn’t latched or the controller 
“thinks” the top isn’t latched.  This can be something as simple as a latch 
microswitch on the top frame latches being out of adjustment or a controller 
issue.

One question - is the roll bar down with the top in place?  It should be.  
You’ve also got “tilt” switches on the rear trailing arms that will cause the 
roll bar to deploy if the angle of the car exceeds a preset amount, measured 
somewhat crudely by the rear suspension geometry through those switches.  For 
example, if you jump a curb on one side of the car with the rear the roll bar 
can deploy.  It's pretty violent but not anything dangerous or I ordered a 
thermostat from FCP, it is a 90deg casting with the actual
tstat in the bottom, there is the big outlet and a small one at top, hoses are 
long enough to remove easily.  So that's on the way I guess.

I have been reading some posts on benzworld on the top and my head is hurting!  A 
demonically complex system they designed there.  All for "convenience" I 
guess...  I'll go out and cycle the top switch again according to the manual, if it is 
still blinking I need to put an LED on the diagnostic plug per all the stuff I have been 
reading, or figure out if the blinks on the switch itself mean anything.  There is no 
chime, just the switch light illuminated and blinking.  I think it is actually locked, it 
does not move although it rattled a bit when I drove it, but that might just be the 
log-wagon suspension problem right now.

I shall keep the list posted on this adventure, though I am ready to sell all 
these others and just drive the 126, nice and simple (once the heat is working).

--FT


On 12/16/18 7:51 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
If the thermostat is like the one on the M119 V8, it’s part of an aluminum 
housing, not a separate part from the housing.  Also, if there’s a short 90 
degree hose that goes to the housing, get one of those.  If the original or an 
old one is on there, it won’t flex enough for you to get the t-stat fitting 
into the hose.  Even with a new, flexible hose it’s a major PITA to get 
everything put back together.

The flashing light in the top switch can mean any number of things, it may be 
accompanied by a chime.  If so, the top isn’t latched or the controller 
“thinks” the top isn’t latched.  This can be something as simple as a latch 
microswitch on the top frame latches being out of adjustment or a controller 
issue.

One question - is the roll bar down with the top in place?  It should be.  
You’ve also got “tilt” switches on the rear trailing arms that will cause the 
roll bar to deploy if the angle of the car exceeds a preset amount, measured 
somewhat crudely by the rear suspension geometry through those switches.  For 
example, if you jump a curb on one side of the car with the rear the roll bar 
can deploy.  It's pretty violent but not anything dangerous or permanent.  I do 
guarantee that the first time it happens you will be doing some laundry 
afterwards, however.

Look at the owner’s manual - it explains the blink codes for the top switch.

-D

On Dec 16, 2018, at 6:48 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
wrote:

I drove the car the other evening and sitting in traffic I noticed it was 
creeping up to red zone on temp.  Pulled over to a guy's boat shop to see if I 
could get some water, he came out and got me a hose and I put some water in, 
but the tank was almost full so that was not it.  Started it again and after a 
minute it cooled off to like 85C where I guess it should be.  I'm guessing the 
thermostat is bad.

I took it off after a bit of wrangling, took me a coupla minutes to figure out 
exactly how to twist it to get it out from under the front hoist bracket. 
(Things in there are TIGHT!)  Brought it in and put it in a pan of water and 
turned up the heat, it really isn't opening until it gets boiling so I'm 
guessing it is shot, I had a thermometer in there and as it cooled to about 205 
it was closing which I think is too hot to close.  I'm not quite sure how a 
temp sensitive spring can go bad but I guess that is what it is.  Just tired 
after all these years.

And of course the Benz engineers do not make just a thermostat, it has be this 
whole elaborate thing, although it looks like the actual thermostat could 
easily come out of the part, it is just those 2 tabs holding it in.  I don't 
know, I guess I'll just order one. $56!  Bah humbug!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-engine-coolant-thermostat-1202000015

autohausaz is a lot more expensive

https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c/mercedes/1995/1195949-sl600_129076/16-cooling_system/2200-thermostat?s=d&page=1

O-reilly is $194!!!  Napa $90 and $412!!!!

On other news, the driver side hood latch wasn't grabbing, I squirted some PB 
in there after fooling with it a bit and no happiness, and magically it now 
works!  Yay me and PB!  I wish everything was that easy...  I remember the same 
issue on one of the SDs, some PB fixed that right up too.

On other news, the top switch light is blinking. I'm not sure that whatever 
grabs the hardtop is grabbing though it seems to be on pretty tightly.  I have 
cycled it so not sure what the nannies are or are not doing, another thing to 
deal with.  Maybe Poos can weigh in on that aspect.  When I push it back (down) 
the soft top actually goes down a bit, or maybe that is the roll bar dropping a 
bit, I'm guessing there are some solenoids in there that grab the pins on the 
top.  I'll look at it more tomorrow in the light.

On other news, I went out to start up the ML that has been sitting to run it a 
bit to keep the battery charged, and of course it just clicked so I put the 
charger on it which soon resulted in happiness.  While it was charging I 
decided to put some gas in the tank as it was down pretty low.  I grabbed a 
2gal jug and dumped some in, after about a half gallon I noticed it did not 
smell like gasoline... yep I grabbed the diesel jug... did not notice the DZL I 
had marked on it...  I got a gas can and put in a coupla gallons, once I got it 
started it was running OK so I guess no harm no foul.  Maybe it will clean out 
any goop in the system!  I gotta get that thing looked at, Max's girlchild 
demands a new ride as she is embarrassed to be seen in his white whale.

--

--FT


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--
--FT


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