Nah for anything structural you need steel, I was thinking of POR15 for just 
the bottom of a trunk thats a little holey. They've actually got a "trunk 
repair kit" thats like a quart of the paint with the associated cleaning 
chemicals and some fiberglass matte.
   
  You can't buy trunk replacement parts? Isn't there somebody else on the list 
going through that right now?
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 21:09:17 -0700
From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Will POR-15 build up enough for rejoining the two halves of sheet into 
one?  I suspect that it wants to be a bearing piece not just cosmetic.  
 From the muck I ground up while dealing with the rust, I think after 
one fender bender or trunk crunch, it was coated with spray 
undercoating.  Not that it helped.  It just made is sticky.


                
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Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 07:58:09 -0700 (PDT)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup
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I'd always assumed it had something to do with the legendary "ehh, whatever" 
Italian work ethic...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 07:52:27 -0400
From: John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup
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On Apr 6, 2006, at 7:35 AM, Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

> Good question-I have thought that German tune up is more appropriate,
> given the autobahns and the legendary speeds there.
> FWIW
>
> Dwight Giles, Jr


 It has already been dubbed Italian Tune-Up in the early days of  
these forums. Ever been to Italy?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


                
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You should be able to get someone to weld in a sheet of metal to form a new 
trunk - possibly cheaper than buying the needed fiberglas materials.  The 
repair does *not* have to look pretty - it can be kept with a carpet/mat and 
never been seen.

Using POR15 or fiberglas for a situation like this is not advisable.  If you 
don;t know someone with a welding machine, look in the newpaper under 
"Services" and there's probably someone in there who does stuff from his 
garage.  Before you buy any sheetmetal make sure the welder knows how to 
weld it and what electrodes he;ll need - galvanizing is not good to weld - 
can;t recall if it produces toxic fumes or poor/weak welds (one or the 
other) so don;t buy any galvanized sheetmetal from Lowes, etc.

There's several companies selling replacement sheetmetal for MBs - either 
pick up a copy of Hemmings or check the hemmongs website for advertisers - 
http://www.hemmings.com/  - I took a briek look and saw an ad for "K&K 
Manufacturing" which says they make rust replacement panels for 
W110,111,116,114,115,123,124,126,& 201's.

Good luck -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk


> Will POR-15 build up enough for rejoining the two halves of sheet into
> one?  I suspect that it wants to be a bearing piece not just cosmetic.
> From the muck I ground up while dealing with the rust, I think after
> one fender bender or trunk crunch, it was coated with spray
> undercoating.  Not that it helped.  It just made is sticky.
>
> On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 07:53 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>> POR15 should be your new best friend. Check out their website, they
>> have a variety of good stuff over there. You could either just glob
>> the paint on if the holes are really tiny and the structure of the
>> metal is not compromised or use it with some fiberglass matte to build
>> up strength. They also make a putty version of the stuff for filling
>> larger areas.
>>   I used it to seal a snowmobile gas tank a couple years ago and its
>> been just great. I also used it on a lawnmower deck last spring. I
>> haven't mowed with that yet but after a winter of sitting out in the
>> snow none of the rust has come back. I just wirebrushed the worst of
>> the rust off, use the 2 treatment chemicals and just brushed on the
>> paint.
>>   Anywhere its going to be exposed to sunlight you need to topcoat but
>> in a trunk you'd be okay.
>>
>>   Be aware also that most normal primer is porus so rust will develop
>> under it just as fast or faster than baremetal.
>>
>>   -Curt
>>
>>   Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 19:47:48 -0700
>> From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  Subject: [MBZ] Rust in the
>> trunk  To: Mercedes list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>>
>> Jim Cathey is my new best friend.  Curse Jim.
>>
>> When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
>> Gump's trunk.  We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
>> trunk liner.  Lots of rusty looking stuff.  Thought I would wait until
>> summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.
>>
>> Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the
>> liner out and sopped up the water.  Really nasty looking rust staining
>> everywhere.  Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the
>> dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating.  All the way
>> down to bare painted metal or rust.
>>
>> Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger
>> than a dime.  There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from
>> starboard to port in a channel.  Guess where the most rust through is.
>> YEP!  right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks
>> seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal.
>>
>> First question -
>>
>> What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes?  I have
>> already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe
>> Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection.
>>
>> Second question -
>>
>> How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern
>> back to the rest of the car?  Can I have a panel made with the channel
>> and weld that in?  It would cover the access to the tank sender
>>
>>
>> --
>> Clay
>> Seattle Bioburner
>>
>> 1972 220D - Gump
>> 1995 E300D - Cleo
>> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
>> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
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