Hi, All.
Kaleb, my expierence with an 190E is that the temp switches on the top of the
engine water outlet are non too reliable, and the fix is to use one from an
124. The 124 switches are set a few degrees lower and work out better, ( I
know, clear as mud). As for the mileage, Mine did about 21-22 in mixed driving
and about 25 @ 65-70 highway.
This was an 1985 190E automatic with 187K miles that ran, and still runs,
well. (tin worm).
HTH.
Fred Moir
Now cured of gasaholicism.
Lynn MA
'It's diesel this and diesel that, and "chuck 'im out , the brute"". RK.
"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What temp is the main fan clutch supposed to engage? Mine doesnt appear
to. Pulled connector off temp switch and grounded it and clutch kicked
in. Does this mean my temp switch is bad?
Next question, what kind of mileage might a 190E 2.3 get in constant
stop and go driving? Would a gas 102 be better in this sort of driving
than the diesel?
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Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 16:15:57 -0700 (PDT)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing
chainissues)
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Ho all!
I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
300sd... One quick question.
Are all these chains universial across the cars? 136
link chains for 61x.xxx engines?
Here is one on ebay for 59.00... seems to be the
cheapest around...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> You wrote:
> <<I have some questions for the collective group if
> I
> may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
> and how it corresponds to the engine tune.>>>
>
> <<I'm exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my
> '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.xxxx
> >From what I have been gathering from the various
> input
> I have received that this is just a bit much and the
> timing chain should be replaced. So I have decided
> to
> do this.
> When I do this, should I:
> Replace the tensionier?>>>
>
> I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
> long time. How many miles
> are on the engine?? Of course, the tensioner is not
> very expensive and if
> you want everything to be as close to "On Spec" as
> possible it won't hurt -
> but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
> and the tensioner comes
> off if you want to replace it later.
>
> <<Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5%
> I
> suspect there will be some little slack in the
> sprockets. So the new chain will not exactly line
> up
> at zero when I put it on. So should I suspect it to
> line up at like 1%?>>
>
> When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
> and it aligned
> perfectly at 0.
>
> <<I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I
> have
> some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
> fairly straight forward.>>
>
> Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
> the chain and connecting
> link in your hands. And consider that a failed
> crimp could destroy the
> engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
> and trying to hold a
> backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with
> your little hammer - while
> making sure the connecting link stays in place as
> you hold everything and
> swing the hammer, gently.
>
> <<I have a small dremel with a grinding disk. Would
> this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose
> the
> old chain?>>
>
> Probably - that steel's pretty high quality and your
> grinding wheels tools
> must be up to the task,
>
> <<Ummm Is there anything else I should think of
> before
> I try and swap the timing chains? I am new to this,
> so any info or insight you may have, would be
> greatly
> appreciated.!>>
>
> Give us a day to think about it --
>
> Good luck - and try to get your mind of it for a
> little while --
>
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff
> http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
> Paint Job Info
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