http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-Mercedes-Benz-300_W0QQitemZ4637699083QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
No affiliation, ect. Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu May 11 15:53:04 2006 Received: from sccrmhc12.comcast.net ([63.240.77.82]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1FeDTM-0003hF-Ga for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Thu, 11 May 2006 15:53:04 +0000 Received: from [192.168.1.2] (c-24-3-195-27.hsd1.pa.comcast.net[24.3.195.27]) by comcast.net (sccrmhc12) with ESMTP id <20060511155251012006g2nfe>; Thu, 11 May 2006 15:52:51 +0000 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 11:53:27 -0400 From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Organization: University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.5.0.2 (Windows/20060308) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In-Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net> List-Unsubscribe: <http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net>, <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Archive: <http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net> List-Post: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Help: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List-Subscribe: <http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net>, <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 15:53:04 -0000 Zoltan Finks wrote: > Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a few > basic questions. > > It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the 240D > since finally taking possession of it. > > 1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the > thing is from Arizona, so dry climate - probably not much moisture-related > problems in tank/lines? The fuel filters were changed at the time of engine > replacement (back in March, and some 2,000 mi. ago). > It has the clear fuel filter, but I don't suppose anything worthwhile can be > told by looking at that? There are actually a couple of small black bits in > there. Change fuel filters if you see particulate or very dark fuel in the inline filter (a little air is normal). One or two particles is NOT a problem (that's what the filter is there to catch). A lot of particles that are accumulating rapidly ARE a problem. If you've gone more than 30kmi since the filters were last changed, it's probably best to change them. If you are buying quality fuel and using the car daily, you may be able to go MUCH longer between fuel filter changes (I've gone more than 60kmi without any problem, but one tank of bad fuel is all it takes to necessitate a filter change). If you notice that the engine won't reach it's maximum speed a clogged fuel or air filter may be the cause. If fuel consumption has increased but you can't detect any leaks (this isn't intuitive, but a partially clogged fuel filter will usually INCREASE fuel consumption) a filter change may be required. Air filter should be changed every kmi unless the weather is cold, wet or dust is bad - then every 15kmi - but they occasionally will clog up before the you reach the usual mileage limits - and when that's needed top speed will be compromised. > > 2) Power Steering Fluid: I'm sure it has not been changed in a long time if > ever (well, I don't know that for sure). Question is: The manual says to use > ATF. So go ahead and use ATF, even though Rusty's site sells specific power > steering fluid? What's the recommended deal here? And if ATF, use Dexron II, > or Dexron III? ATF is the proper choice of power steering fluid for that car (the Mercedes fluid, while satisfactory is NOT better in THAT car and is more expensive). Mobil 1 ATF will reduce cold weather stiffness, but ANY Dexron II/III rated fluid is adequate. Change filter too! You can remove the contents of the reservoir (that's more than a pint) and refill it. If you do that every couple of days 4 times, more than 90% of the fluid will be fresh. Or you can pump out the contents while adding fluid to the reservoir (messy - don't let it run dry). > > 3) Manual Transmission Fluid: The manual says to use "Engine oil SAE 10 W/20 > W-20". So this is telling me to use either 10W20 or to use straight 20 > weight? The way it's written is a bit unclear. Again here, just follow TFM? > I ask because I've heard of using ATF in the manual tranny, and I've also > heard of using thicker oil - along the lines of gear oil (though I believe > this is most appropriate in climates like AZ, etc.) Mercedes used ATF for many years before your transmission was made and for years after your transmission was made. For a couple of years ('82-'83 as I recall) they substituted 20W oil for the ATF. Then without changing the transmission(s) in any way they went back to ATF. Either is satisfactory, but ATF is probably a bit better for the transmission and Mobil 1 ATF will improve shift smoothness and will be much less stiff in VERY cold weather. The fluid should be changed every 30-60 kmi. DO NOT use EP type gear oil (that's used in MOST other manual transmissions and almost all differentials) in a Mercedes manual transmission. It will chemically destroy parts of the transmission. Gear oil IS appropriate for the differential. I prefer Mobil 1 gear oil, but the difference between it and ordinary gear oils is very minor except in VERY cold weather. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)