Brian,
Mighty-Vac is too small for engine oil evacuation. There is a device
brand name "Top Sider" that is very nice for about $40 or so. Cheaper
routes:
1) If you have a vacuum cleaner, make a vacuum chamber (to catch the
oil) from a 5 gallon bucket or some such, and get some really stiff
plastic hose from hardware store (I think 5/8 inch outside diameter?
Can't recall now, measure your dipstick hole inside diameter). Make one
small hole in lid for the tubing to enter and go about half way down
into bucket (keep hole small as possible - needs to be tight to develop
vacuum), make another hole just smaller than vacuum hose, so that vacuum
hose makes seal on top of lid. Cost of this will depend on what you
have around the house, I think that I spent a few dollars for the tubing
and used an empty cat litter container for the vacuum chamber. One
fellow converted an old propane tank as vacuum chamber, added fittings
for vacuum pump and and connection for air compressor; first he'd
evacuate the chamber with vacuum pump, then attach line to dipstick tube
and suck out oil, then pressurize the chamber with air compressor and
then drain chamber with air pressure. I intend to follow this example
once I buy a vacuum pump.
2) Visit your local marine goods store; they usually stock one or two
different devices for this job; I've seen hand drill powered pumps, and
small electric motor powered pumps (12v), price ranges vary from $20 and
up.
3) I have an old sump pump that my father gave me, 115 VAC and designed
to pump anything. I rigged up connections for my tubing, this pumps out
the oil in about 1.5 minutes but it is loud.
Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*
-----Original Message-----
From: Zoltan Finks [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:13 PM
To: Dillon, Meade LCDR
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid
Yes! I was going to look into the "sucking" method of oil
change. I did buy a mighty-vac some time ago, but haven't looked at it
yet.
Brian
83 240D
On 5/11/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Yes, same procedure for checking oil level and filling
in. Hazet makes
a really nice wrench that has the hex bit at one end and
13mm six point
at other end for oil drain plug. If you plan to do all
your own oil
changes, this is a really nice wrench to have, cost is
about $30 I
believe. I remove engine oil by suction (MB approved,
removes more oil
and I don't have to crawl under the car) so I don't use
the oil drain
plug end of the wrench, put the hex key end is really
nice to have for
those plugs on the tranny and diff.
Change interval is not specified in the maintenance
sheets (attached,
will be stripped from list copy). Auto trans
fluid/filter interval is
30k miles, so to be conservative I'd use same for manual
trans.
Differential oil and power steering fluid should
probably be changed
every 60k or maybe at 90k, MB does not specify a change
interval. Will
also depend on your driving duty - severe duty (heavy
loads and/or dusty
conditions/poor roads) would require shorter change
intervals. Tranny
and diff level should be checked every 15k miles.
Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid
Gotta ask too:
On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it
a matter of
pulling the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in
there to feel
around; and when filling, is it a matter of filling 'til
it begins to
run out of the hole? This is the method on what I grew
up on - American
Iron - but I am just making sure it's that simple with
the German stuff
too.
Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same
check/fill procedure?
AND
How often should this oil be changed?
Brian
83 240D
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