You can do as much damage with a DA buffer as a rotary of you don’t know what you’re doing.
However, using a DA is far easier for the novice and the resources for how to use one are plentiful. The material you use is critical as well. I try ti stick with 3M or Meguire’s materials, as they’re the most “honest” as I’ve found as far as performance. The best approach to cleaning up a finish is to start in an obscure area, like the right rear door so if you screw up you don’t have to look at it every time you walk up to the car, and begin with the least aggressive material and move up gradually until you obtain the results you want. The single stage paints that Mercedes used during this time period are extremely forgiving and easy to work with. I’ve recovered finishes on cars of this vintage that others have refused to touch. -D > On Jan 26, 2021, at 2:32 PM, Donald Snook via Mercedes > <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > I am very Leary of using a powerful buffer because I have seen people burn > through paint. I was watching a video and the guy had a “dual action” buffer. > It was smaller and less power than a real buffer. I saw one for sale at > harbor freight. > > I guess my question is what is a good buffer for someone that doesn’t want to > use a 3000 rpm buffer. I have used the cheap round orbital buffers from Wal > Mart. They are not powerful enough to burn through paint. But, they are also > so low speed, they can’t really tackle bad oxidation. > > > Donald H. Snook > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
