(corrected subject line - sorry!)
I would echo others on this point... there's a noticeable difference in
quality for any rubber-related parts.
Also the fitment can be dodgy: I had one set of mounts from Febi-Bilstein
that just did NOT want to settle into place because the metal part was
slightly wrong, one set of Meyle ("Germany", LOL) that were OK, and of
course genuine MB was fine. This was on rust-free California cars (R107,
W115 x 2). I spent most of my life in Toronto, where road salt is spread
with abandon, so I could imagine how this could easily go south with any
corrosion. I would urge you to apply Liquid Wrench or its equivalent and
then wait hours/days for it to work its way in. The captive nuts are indeed
tricky.
D.
On Mon, Aug 30, 2021, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes wrote:
> > Just get them from the dealer. Most are still available, and ones that
> > were not are coming back.
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 30, 2021 at 12:10 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> > [email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> The motor mounts likely should be done too but it appears that it is
> >> getting much more difficult to get good ones.
> >> Do you suggest just getting whatever I can and live with the idea that
> >> they are not going to last as long as the existing ones?
> >>
> >> Randy
> >>
> >> On 30/08/2021 10:50 AM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes wrote:
> >>> The bolts that go through the center of the mounts are the most risky.
> >> As
> >>> Dan said, soak them. The unique captured nut they spin into can be
> >> damaged
> >>> if the bolt is rusted to it and you try to remove it aggressively. I
> >> don't
> >>> find it to be a problem very often. There is a torque spec for those
> >> bolts
> >>> and it's not very much... maybe 50nm? Don't over tighten them.
> >>>
> >>> Do one side at a time. Remove the calipers and tie them up so you
> don't
> >>> stretch on the brake hoses, or disconnect the hoses and cap them.
> After
> >>> removing the bolts for the mount on one side, the subframe will come
> down
> >>> some but will then be limited by the engine. At this point you can
> undo
> >>> the center bolt on the engine mount to pull the subframe down further.
> >> Its
> >>> also a great time to change the engine mounts, of course. A floor jack
> >> is
> >>> useful to support things and move them back into place. And make sure
> >>> you're not stressing the engine fan against the shroud.
> >>>
> >>> You can usually pry out the mounts from the subframe with little
> effort.
> >>> Installing the new ones is much easier with a rubber lubricant. I use
> >> the
> >>> MB stuff, but I suppose you can use soap and water also.
> >>>
> >>> It's really not a terrible job unless there is rust.
> >>>
> >>> Good luck!
> >>> Jaime
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, Aug 30, 2021 at 11:38 AM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
> >>> [email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Start soaking the bolts with Kroil.
> >>>>
> >>>> Jaime might chime in here, but if it?s the same as doing the subframe
> >>>> bushings on a W114, it?s not a bad job, just time consuming. Unless
> >> there?s
> >>>> a lot of corrosion I wouldn?t think the bolts would be tough to get
> out.
> >>>>
> >>>> -D
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Aug 30, 2021, at 11:27 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> >>>> [email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>> Anyone have advice for installation?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I have obtained them but not yet installed them. I do not want to
> break
> >>>> off any of the bolts.
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