I would agree with the others, don’t attempt any sort of adjustment. I say that 
because the few times I’ve tried tinkering with these I usually ended up making 
things worse. It’s an antique timepiece, it’s not going to come remotely close 
to meeting accurate time standards.

-D

> On Sep 14, 2021, at 1:04 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> Lost about 20 minutes in the past 16 hours. I reset it to correct time again 
> will keep monitoring it.
> 
> I had read there's a calibration screw on (some?) of these but I don't see 
> one, at least not one that's externally accessible.
> 
> Allan
> 
> On Mon, Sep 13, 2021, at 8:51 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
>> Unless you have experience with clockworks, I'd leave it alone. They are 
>> very well sealed and don't seem to collect dust and dirt, and if it's 
>> keeping time the lubricants are good.
>> 
>> It's a simple clock, wound as described with a fairly soft spring, so low 
>> loading.
>> 
>> If you do want to lubricate it, you really need to dis-assemble, clean all 
>> the pivots and jewels (and I think  it's a jeweled movement, at least the 
>> fast running parts), then assemble and lubricate with VERY small amounts of 
>> synthetic clock oil applied with a clock oiler.  That is, a small wire with 
>> the end flattened into a tiny spoon that delivers the correct amount of oil. 
>>  You only need enough oil to fill the space between the pivot and the hole, 
>> and just barely the shoulder behind the pivot (the pin like bit that goes in 
>> the hole).
>> 
>> Do NOT add oil to an old clock, even a sealed one without complete cleaning. 
>>  Any dust or grit around the pivot will get carried into the hole by the new 
>> oil, and it will start grinding.  New oil usually won't thin out gummy old 
>> oil either. 
>> 
>> I'd assume it was lubricated with high quality synthetic clock oil in the 
>> first place -- Elgin developed them in the 30s.
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