> I guess the worst thing is it will just trip a breaker.

The worst thing is that it will start a fire, and not out on the flamey end.
Though this is unlikely.

I REALLY don't like the games they're clearly playing with the input cord.
Also, their labeled specs are pretty crappy/confusing.  On the back,
IF I interpret correctly, it says that 110V Imax is 43A, but it says that Ieff
(effective, i.e. RMS) is only 33A.  Heating is the problem with overcurrent,
and heating is driven by RMS current, not peak.

So, so long as the wire in their firestarter cabling is good for 30A (RMS) then
it won't catch on fire.  You will be hard-pressed, though, to find any 
standard-looking
outlet that will give you more than 20A before its breaker pops.  And you will 
be
hard pressed to find any standard-looking outlet that is capable of delivering 
50%
more current (30A) through its blade contacts without causing problems, even
if it was wired and fused for 30A.  (10ga wiring, 30A breaker.  DO NOT DO
THIS!!!!)  There's a reason that those high-current plugs have such big pins.
So, there's no way this would work well at high loads for very long.
The input wiring is simply not up to the task.

You, and indeed likely most of their customers, will probably not be riding it 
so hard
as to cause input feed problems, and so it'll probably work fine.  This is 
China, Inc.,
and they simply don't care about a few fires that might come of this.  At the 
first sign
of trouble they'd simply change the paint color and the name on it, and soldier 
on.

All of these objections would go away if they'd simply put a real 220V cord on 
it,
with the correct 30A (50A?) plug.  It could be used on 110V, but one should 
expect
the 20A breaker to pop if you run it too hard for too long.

-- Jim


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