Gas has been in free-fall here for a couple weeks, its dropped something like
$.50 in the past month. Diesel had been holding steady and yesterday I was
really starting to get upset.
Today on my commute I noticed the big truckstop was down $0.10 to $2.89.
Home heating fuel is $2.49 at the place near my house. My house's tank is
under half so I need to start shopping around.
-Curt
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 12:01:18 -0700
From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Possible damage caused by heated WVO
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Biodiesel List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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I too have heard several people say various conversion kits are a
waste.
So, Dave...if you've found a 50/50 mix is good down to zero, then all I
should have to do...since I'm leaning towards a one-tank system...is to
do a
mix in winter when it gets "cold" here (hardly ever freezing) you
reckon?
If you get a sec, you should to work up a little Jim C-esque page a on
the
pieces/parts a guy like me would need to get, and how easy it is to
install,
based on your experience, to do a single tank conversion.
I paid $3.20 for #2 today. The madness must stop!
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 158K
'87 Acura Legend 177K
Still waiting on '72 350SL 78K
Litchfield Park, AZ
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 08:11:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Moved into our new house (1 car garage!) last weekend. The back entrance setup
was wierd, they had two locking doors in a row both had windows and were only
keyed on one side. I replaced the most outside lock with a double key setup and
left the inner alone.
My wife just called, she'd gone grocery shopping and locked the inner door.
ALL the keys for that door are on a ring in the basement as is my drill.
*Sigh*
Fortunately I'm friends with the guy who owns the snowmobile shop down the
street. I'll borrow his drill tonight, lucky me.
-Curt
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 A/C leak
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Hans,
I feel your pain. I've got a 1995 W124 here with the exact same
problem. I've got a very small leak around the compressor shaft, and a
very large one in the evaporator. The compressor shaft can be resealed
relatively easily. Just be sure and use authentic Toyota parts
(there's aparently an aftermarket seal that's junk).
The evaporator is a different story. I've been quoted anywhere between
15 and 18 hours for this job at dealers and indies that do a lot of
them. Had one indie tell me he had a guy that did 4-5 a month, and
could make a good living off just W124 evaps.
I figure it would take me several weeks to do, so I haven't attempted
it yet. Of course the fact that I don't have a spare car right now
makes it worse.
As an alternative, I've talked to several people that have been
successful with various leak sealers. The pros bad mouth the stuff,
and say it'll destroy your entire A/C system. From my perspective, if
I have to dismantle the entire car to replace the evaporator, what's a
couple of extra bucks to replace the whole enchilada if the sealer
doesn't work? If it works, great. If not, what have I really lost?
Gary Thompson
Georgetown, TX
1995 E320 "The sweatbox"
On 9/5/06, Hans Neureiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My 124 developed a freon leak which I cannot positively pinpoint (system
> goes down in about 3 weeks). Suspect is the expansion valve. I put dye in
> the system and have a vague notion that at the top of the valve is some
> discoloration. The sniffer stays quiet, but when I hold it near the
> compressor connection it goes off. Are there certain common places for this
> leak.
>
> --
> Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
> '82 300SD, '95 E300D
