Oh, I was going to write - before I got pissy - that I noticed that the 0W30
bottles were about the only bottles on the shelves that had seepage
occurring from the caps of most of the bottles. Maybe that's an indicator
right there.

Brian


On 12/29/06, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

You know, I'm tired of feeling guilty for daring to mention an oil-related
topic. If you've been through this a dozen times, just delete it.

Yes, I could look in the archives (if they'd work) but part of my
enjoyment of the list is talking to you fellas and getting feedback.

And by the way, thank you Werner for the good info.

Brian


 On 12/29/06, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> OK, I've been trying to stay out of another (repeating) oil thread, but
> here
> goes:
> The most wear that an engine experiences is during a cold start.  Oil
> pressure isn't up, oil has drained down into the sump, and clearances
> are at
> their greatest.  So it makes sense to use an oil (such as a good
> synthetic)
> that "clings" best to metal surfaces, and that will quickly flow through
> the
> passages when the pump starts.
>
> Heavy duty engines use pre-heating and pre-pressurization of the oil
> system
> before they start.  Most car engines don't have that luxury, hence the
> need
> for some common sense like using a good oil, not loading the engine
> until it
> gets a bit of heat into it (Note: that does not mean idling for 5-10
> minutes!).  And gasoline fuel engines do not put as much loading on rod
> bearings as Diesels do, so a very "thin" oil works out OK.
>
> Also, the thinner the oil, the less work it takes to pump it through the
> engine, hence the claim for better mileage with 0W-40 rather than 10W-40
> is
> theoretically true.  And the car manufacturers have a vested interest in
>
> getting the highest CAFE ratings, and don't want the car to last
> forever, so
> they recommend the thinnest oil that will get them through the warranty
> period, and perhaps another year or two. But please remember that the
> manufacturer has a recommended oil viscosity for each engine, and I'm
> not
> aware that 0W- anything was ever recommended for 70s, 80s, and early 90s
> vintage M-B Diesels in our climates!
>
> That said, for a Diesel that you may want to last for 200, 300, or 400
> thousand miles, it makes sense to use a "C" rated oil, such as the
> 15W-40
> Delvac1.  Remember, oil is less expensive than metal - meaning that an
> engine rebuild always costs more than you could possibly save by
> skimping on
> oil or using the wrong viscosity.
>
> Werner (sorry to keep this going)
> '90 300D
> '83 300SD
> '87 F150
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Zoltan Finks" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 1:59 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1
>
>
> > Not that I haven't taken heed of all the posts on this, but to my
> brain at
> > least, the following excerpts (below) seem to make sense to me, and
> here's
> > why:
> >
> > If there were no difference (negative) in using 0W Mobil 1, why
> doesn't
> > everyone run it, and thus receive the (claimed on the bottle) benefits
> of
> > better fuel mileage, and better cold starting (if that's an issue
> where
> > they
> > live) than the other weights of Mobil 1? In other words, most people
> would
> > be running 0W if there were no side effects.
> >
> > Brian
> > 83 240D
> > 84 Saab 900 (received the 0W30 Mobil 1 last night)
> >
> > Curt wrote:
> >
> > I'd put 0w40 into my 240D and it leaked like crazy. Maybe a quart in
> 100
> > miles.
> > I tried 5w40 (this was a couple years ago when the 5w40 was easy to
> find)
> > and it leaked maybe a quart in 300 miles.
> > 15w50 leaked a quart in maybe 350 miles, same with conventional 15w40.
>
> > (snip)
> >
> > and:
> >
> > What have you been running in it up to now? You're mostly right about
> how
> > the oil works but it is very thin and you shouldn't be surprised about
> it
> > leaking more. (snip)
>
>
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