Just replace the schrader valves in the fittings and get new caps, 
vacuum it down and recharge and you'll be back to looking for a jacket 
in no time.
Those screw on fittings are the standard for retrofit. They generally 
have some high strengh loctite type stuff on the threads so they can't 
be removed very easily without damaging the threads on the original 
fitting. This is a requirement to prevent tampering.
Ford AC systems are pretty stout, no worries about r134a not cooling 
enough. AC systems are the one thing the 'merican cars have up on 
everyone else.
If it's an ofifice tube system instead of an expansion valve system, and 
you're in a hot climate, you might want to consider putting a variable 
orifice valve in the thing. They work nicely ( they don't do much up 
north in cooler climates )

--------Robert

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
> I've been driving my Lincoln to work because the A/C in my 124 is
> acting up and the weather here's been unbearable.  Today the lights on
> the climate control suddenly started blinking (indicating an error
> condition) and simultaneously the engine hiccupped.  I immediately
> thought, "Ack, low Freon, clutch must have locked up for an instant
> before the pressure switch told the computer to disengage it, I've got
> to catch it before it breaks the serpentine belt" and turned off the
> A/C.  I got to work without further incident and popped the hood to
> see if anything was obviously wrong.  While contemplating the
> compressor in my usual half-awake morning state I suddenly realized,
> "Hey, those service ports don't look right!"  Indeed they didn't.
> Some bozo apparently put on those screw-on McParts R12-to-R134a
> fittings in order to recharge the system with R134a, and didn't even
> bother to slap on a sticker under the hood indicating that a
> "conversion" (such as it is) had been done.  I didn't notice before
> because the usual red and blue plastic caps aren't there.
>
> The absence of caps on the valves, however, made it clear where the
> leak was: the high side fitting was actually bubbling with oil and
> escaping refrigerant.  So I guess I need to replace that
> one---hopefully it's just the R134A adapter that's bad, not the real
> R12 fitting underneath.  But then what?
>
> I know all the concerns about decreasing A/C performance by using
> R134a in a system designed to use R12, but this is not a Mercedes A/C
> system where cooling capacity is already marginal---this is a Detroit
> system, that when functioning right makes the inside of the car feel
> like an Eskimo's meat locker, even in ambient temps over 100.  I still
> want it to work right, though, and not introduce any new leaks if I
> can help it!  And I have no way to know whether any seals have been
> replaced with R134a-compatible ones, or whether any other part of the
> conversion was done right.  (I suspect not.)
>
> Questions: Should I replace the fitting and just go ahead and charge
> with R134A and the appropriate oil on top of whatever's already in
> there?  Is there a "conversion oil" that I should be using as
> preferable to regular 134a-compatible oil for a retrofitted R12
> system?   Is there any additive I can put in that'll help with the
> seals?
>
> Or should I vacuum the whole system, replace the receiver/dryer, and
> refill with hydrocarbons (for test purposes!) a la Jim C.?  Is doing
> the latter but not replacing the R/D living dangerously, or is what
> they say on the sites that sell HC refrigerants true, about moisture
> not being a big deal in a system thus pressurized?  If I go with HC,
> should I take off the R134a conversion adapters, or is messing with
> those asking for trouble (possibly stressing the old R12 fittings and
> making them leak, necessitating replacement)?
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper
> '86 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
>
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